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Review of 1888 Chop House – Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel

November 8, 2018 By karin Leave a Comment

The 1888 Chop House is the principal fine dining option at the Banff Springs Hotel. Located in the space of the former Banffshire Club, this iteration of fine dining skews a bit more to the casual and accessible. Gone are the gourmet tasting menus, the formal decor and china, the tables and seating seem a bit more contemporary and laid back than I remember – even the approach to dress seems to be more casual than in the past. (You certainly wouldn’t be in the wrong to dress for a special occasion, but this is an upscale steak house and that’s what it feels like.)

You may have read in my earlier post about our harrowing journey to the Banff Springs. We had reservations at 1888 for 7:00pm, and ended up texting and calling the restaurant several times to change plans en route as snow and sleet and standstill traffic barred the way (we had expected to be at the hotel in the early afternoon). We were so grateful to be accommodated, and ended up miraculously sliding into our chairs at 8:45 pm, about the time of their last seating. Our waiter slid the restaurant’s famous champagne cart up to our table – familiar to us from the Banffshire Club days – and we promptly requested two glasses of Veuve Cliquot Rose to toast the way the day turned out in the end!

Next order of business: food. We were hungry and ready for a great meal. We started off with the 1888 Caesar Salad, served on a chilly and very attractive slate plate. It was a really nice take on the classic.

The salads were served with fresh, warm buns and butter.

We knew we would both be having beef (we’d been dreaming of luscious steaks all day), but we had to settle on a wine. The restaurant has an excellent wine list, quite reasonably priced, and with a variety of excellent choices. We chose a 2013 Joseph Phelps Insignia, a bordeaux blend from Napa. The colour as you can gather from the photos was a very deep, dark purple – gorgeous, actually. A big wine that was amazing to wave under the nose as well as to sip, bold but silky. Paired amazingly well with our steaks, as we expected!

I chose the Brant Lake Wagyu Tenderloin with herbed butter, not always available, but on the menu that evening. I’m really glad it was – it was rich and buttery (the steak, not just the butter) and full-flavored. I’m quite sure my portion exceeded the 7oz. listed. For him – the Brant Lake Wagyu Striploin with herbed butter (unfortunately, I can’t locate a photo, but it was scrumptious).

Brant Lake Beef Tenderloin topped with Herbed Butter

Sides are served a la carte and made to share. We love wild mushrooms with steak, so that choice was easy. And we’d read high praise for the Braised Rustic Carrots with Brown Butter. It turned out to be a really spectacular dish – monster-sized carrots split lengthwise (but really, good – still very flavorful), then braised in brown butter. Sweet, savory and wonderful texture, very pretty on the wooden board it was served on. Definitely recommend it!

This was a great meal with excellent, attentive service. And while we were totally exhausted from our drive, we decided nevertheless to enjoy the the 100 years of Tawny Port (10,20,30 and 40 Year). Impressive, and always a great opportunity to directly compare the different appearance, nose and taste as the port ages.

Forty years of Tawny Port (10, 20, 30, 40)

After that, we called it a night and looked forward to the second meal we had planned for 1888…

…And so, on to Dinner #2 at 1888 Chop House!

I began once again with Veuve Cliquot Rose Champagne, while for him – one of the restaurant’s signature sidecar, the ‘Pale & Dry’ (from the Sidecars’ Library, no less). Tasty, although a bit too tart for his taste, this sidecar was made with Delamain XO, Grand Marnier, and lemon juice. And unfortunately it took a while to arrive at the table (my bubbly was already losing some of its sparkle). While we still enjoyed our meal overall, there was a strange combination that evening of certain parts of the meal being rushed, while others (like cocktails) took a while. This took away a bit from what we were hoping would be a leisurely, luxurious meal. However, service and pacing at our previous meal was perfect, so without further evidence. I choose to see this as a blip and hope that if you go that you find that to be the case, too.

1888's craft sidecar — 1888’s craft sidecar

Moving on to the good stuff, I greatly enjoyed the evening’s featured soup, a velvety and rich cauliflower soup with parmesan oil and cheddar. My dining companion had a wedge salad with 1888’s ‘spin’ – cubes of meaty lardons and a Mans pickled egg.

Always the highlight, we perused the wine menu once again, this time heading to France and choosing the 2010 Chateau Gazin from Pomerol.

This wine will definitely be enjoyable for years to come, but we don’t regret tasting it now. Beautiful purple colour, and all the characteristics of a fine wine from Pomerol. Mmmmm…

For the main course – he went with steak again, a massive 24 oz. rib eye with a sea salt baked potato (fully loaded and ‘lardoned’ of course) and an order of wild mushrooms. It was delicious, but most certainly eclipsed by the Brant Lake Wagyu cuts we’d enjoyed at our previous meal.

I enjoyed my selection very much – a roasted chicken breast with braised carrot, a bright, cheerful carrot foam, charred shallots (really brought out the sweet side of the shallot!) and a golden, delicate buttermilk potato pave. Hard to compare this with the beef tenderloin I had the other night as they’re so very different; but I wouldn’t hesitate to have the chicken again.

Roast Chicken Breast with carrot foam, charred shallots, and buttermilk potato pave.

I had to throw in the towel so to speak after my meal finishing the evening with a cup of herbal tea. For him – the molten chocolate lava cake and a sip of Pappy Van Winkle, which he was thrilled to find on the menu.

Molten Chocolate Lava Cake, Pappy Van Winkle

For more information or to make reservations, visit www.1888chophouse.com

Vermillion Room – Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel

November 6, 2018 By karin Leave a Comment

The Vermillion Room Bar and Brasserie in the Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel is the latest restaurant iteration in this space overlooking the Bow Valley. At one time, it was the formal Rob Roy dining room – jacket required. Later still, it was the much more casual, and more family-friendly Bow Valley Grill. It’s possible I may be missing a ‘version’ or two, but its current form as The Vermillion Room, it’s a stylish space with an appealing French brasserie menu. I found it brighter, hipper and more vibrant than the Bow Valley Grill – art deco light fixtures and gleaming brass will do that, I suppose. And in my opinion, the new brightened-up design takes better advantage of the stunning mountain view than the interiors of the former restaurants.

We were fortunate to be seated at table gazing across the wide patio and out at the peaks of the Bow Valley itself:

The lunch menu had a nice variety of selections, with familiar French-comfort-cuisine inspired favourites such as the Croque Monsieur, Steak Frites, Roast Chicken, and Soupe a L’Oignon. Prices are on the higher side for a (fairly) casual lunch, but we found the quality of our meals to be quite good. (I’m not sure this restaurant would in fact be described as casual – but it certainly is more so as compared to the 1888 Chop House in the hotel, incidentally not a lunch option).

I had the Salade Nicoise and was very pleased with both the quality of the tuna, and the perfect way it was prepared – rare and just barely warm. The Mans Farm egg was fresh and very tasty, and the fruity olive oil dressing was delicate, slightly warm, and tied the delicate greens and vegetables together with the fish. I paired it with a glass of sweet and lovely Alsatian Pinot Gris.

For my Monsieur, the Croque Monsieur of course – topped with a beautiful fried egg (ingenious). The sandwich was rich, hearty and good – but the fries may have been the meal’s standout feature. Prepared with a delicate truffle oil, I found myself leaning toward his plate just to catch a whiff of the earthy aroma. Hold the ketchup, please.

For dessert – we had the Pot de Creme au Chocololat with French Vanilla Cream and a couple of very good cappuccinos.

Our experience at the Vermillion Room overall was relaxing and leisurely, with tasty food – a fine way to spend a Thursday afternoon. The dining room was fairy empty at this time of day (noting also of course the time of year – early October), and service was a tad on the slow side. It didn’t bother us as we had nowhere to go, but something perhaps to keep in mind if you have a tight itinerary. Also, note that the while restaurant is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner there are closures in between these meals (Breakfast: 7am-11am; Lunch: Noon-3pm; Dinner 5pm-10pm and Weekend Brunch 11am-3pm).

The only meal we had at The Vermillion Room was one very laid back and lazy lunch, so I can’t comment on either breakfast or dinner. My impression is that with its spaciousness and stylish-yet-casual atmosphere, it would be a popular choice for hotel guests for these meals – probably fairly busy and boisterous.

An enjoyable atmosphere – and you can’t beat the view.

For more information on The Vermillion Room, or to make reservations or view its menus, please visit www.vermillionroom.com

Grapes (Charcuterie Bar Cellar) at the Fairmont Banff Springs

November 2, 2018 By karin Leave a Comment

We’ve been staying at the iconic Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel for almost twenty years. This small, tucked-away room had always intrigued me. Formerly, in the hotel’s heyday, the space served as the elegant ‘Writing Room’ for its guests. What an incredible spot this would have been to pen a missive or two about one’s adventures in the Rocky Mountains.

The stonework, woodwork and large vaulted window with lovely stained glass panels show the care and attention that went into even the nooks and crannies of the ‘castle in the mountains’. It’s truly impressive to look at, and fun to imagine guests of long ago sitting near the window perched over pen and paper, looking up at the breathtaking mountain view.

For some time now, the small but beautiful room has served as a wine bar. Reservations are an absolute must as there are only about eight tables in all, plus a few seats right up at the bar. It’s well worth making the booking — quite honestly our meal here was one of the most enjoyable of our hotel stay, owing a lot to the cozy and unique atmosphere. And ambience aside, the menu is also terrific:

Cured meats, smoked fish, handcrafted pates and terrines, a selection of delicious Canadian cheeses, fresh baked breads, artisanal crackers, pickled vegetables and warm olives — and of course a nice selection of wine by the bottle or by the glass. I often think of this as my style of eating – small bites of delicious meats and cheese and treats presented on beautiful boards while sipping wine. In a setting like this, it can hardly be better.

As you can see, the presentation is spectacular – rustic and artistic at the same time. We started off with a wooden ‘basket’ of warm bread and fresh butter, along with a mason jar of warmed olives – so good. We then moved along to the Chef’s Medley Board, quite willing to be surprised and delighted by her customized selections – which we were. The cured meats were delicately shaved just before serving, and piled up in generous, tempting mounds of goodness. On our board was paper-thin speck, bison, and smoked duck (in the photo below, start from the bottom and move your eyes up the board). Interspersed among the meats were scrumptious pickled vegetables (cauliflower, beets, asparagus, carrots) and three gorgeous chesses: Britannia 3-year cheddar, Pacific Rock with washed rind, and the lovely Bleu Fume (we love a pungent blue, but this milder take would be more widely appealing, I think). Tying the board together were the dollops of homemade jams: blueberry ( – I think! Unfortunately my notes are sketchy on this one), a savory green tomato, and a spicy peach.

Grapes Charcuterie Board - Chef's Selection — Grapes Charcuterie Board – Chef’s Selection

Though wines were available by the glass, we opted for a bottle of Pinot Noir knowing it would pair well with just about anything we ordered – and we planned to keep our options open! We chose the 2012 Sokol Blosser enjoying every berry warm/spicy sip.

And then, even more fun ensued. Even after feasting on the bread, butter, olives and charcuterie board above, it was hard for us to ignore the incredible fish boards that kept drifting passed our table. We just had to add it to the meal.

The fish board was another feast for the eyes, with delicate pieces of house hot smoked salmon, crispy black pepper crackers, crackers baked with licorice-y caraway seeds, and a dollop of grainy mustard.

To finish the sumptuous meal of many treats, we ordered a generous wedge of Le Cendre des Pres, a triple-cream Quebec brie with a line of maple ash in its center, and fruity jam. Paired with a glass of Chardonnay, the night was complete.

I have to make a special note of the truly great service we enjoyed here at Grapes. There were only two servers for the room, as well as the chef busily preparing boards behind the bar. Despite the small size of the room, the constant orders of boards, small plates, and ‘a little more this and that’ kept them very busy. They remained very helpful and friendly, with an excellent knowledge of the menu. Impressive!

Make a stop at Grapes a must on your next stay at the Fairmont Banff Springs (but make reservations!).

For more information about Grapes Charcuterie Bar Cellar, call 403-762-6860 or visit the restaurant’s webpage at www.fairmont.com . Reservations can be made by calling 403-762-6860 or through Open Table.

Balkan Restaurant – Banff, Alberta

November 1, 2018 By karin Leave a Comment

We’ve walked by Balkan Restaurant many times over the years while strolling up and down Banff Avenue. It’s always looked inviting, and the menu seemed delicious, but for one reason or another, we’ve ended up elsewhere for a nosh (probably walking by a little too early or just too late for lunch). This time, we decided the climb the little flight of stairs and have a leisurely lunch here – and it was great!

First of all, you can’t go wrong with the appealing Greek fare on the menu (here’s a sliver):

The interior is a lot more spacious than it might seem from the ‘hole in the wall’ positioning from the street.

High ceilings and lots of natural light, too – much more room than I expected. With large tables for big families and groups, and distinct sections in the dining room, there’s a lot more space than you’d think. Decor was fresh and interesting, too.

Granted, the height of the tourist season had ended, so the place wasn’t exactly hopping (lots of space to breathe and spread out on a lazy Friday afternoon in early October). However, several large family groups were sitting near us,clearly residents of Banff with children enjoying a half day at school. This is obviously a favourite place for those who live around here — and with good cause.

As I mentioned above, the menu is very appealing, family friendly – and of course, ‘feta’ friendly ;). I mean, who doesn’t love big cubes of briny feta cheese? We both had a greek salad (Horiatiki) for $17 – a heaping mound of luscious tomatoes, red onions, olives, cucumbers, peppers, and of course feta cheese and a lovely drizzle of extra virgin olive oil. We had it all topped with juicy morsels of marinated chicken for another $8. The salad did not make for an inexpensive meal, but it was a generous one. Probably could have happily split one between us.

Greek Salad with Chicken at Balkan Restaurant in Banff — Horiatiki with Chicken at Balkan Restaurant in Banff

We would not hesitate to stop here again for lunch and you should, too. (I have my eye on the scrumptious looking Dolmathes…)

Visit Balkan Restaurant in Banff, Alberta at 120 Banff Avenue. For more information, visit the restaurant’s website at www.banffbalkcan.ca or call (403) 762 3454.

Keens Steakhouse – New York, NY

May 14, 2018 By karin Leave a Comment

An impressive rib eye at Keens Steakhouse

I think this photo of the Prime Rib of Beef (King’s Cut) says just about everything you need to know about Keens Steakhouse. This place is seriously old school, with honest, generous fare. You also get the feeling that little has changed over the 100+ years since its establishment – from the menu to the decor to the quality service – and that’s a very good thing.

In fact, a reminder of Keens’ traditions hangs right above your head as you dine. Apparently the largest of its kind, there is a collection of tens of thousands of churchwarden pipes adorning the ceiling. Keens kept the pipes ‘checked in’ for patrons at the restaurant for use when they came to dine. Pipes belonged to such illustrious gentlemen as Teddy Roosevelt and Albert Einstein, and other notable members.

Churchwarden pipes – a fascinating tradition

Here’s a peek at the menu, more evidence that Keens does a few things, and does them very well:

The wine list is similarly to-the-point – hardly the phone book of some places – but we also found it to be expertly curated with great wines to pair with beef. (Terrific selection of after-dinner liquors as well):

Wine list curated for an old school steakhouse

But before getting to after dinner, let’s begin at the beginning, which for us (fittingly) was with a Manhattan – very nice!

As this was our final evening in NYC, we decided to take our time, enjoy and not hold back in any way. So, knowing beef was still to come, we began by sharing the generous chilled seafood tray complete with lobster tail, jumbo shrimp and a selection of oysters and clams with the expected mignonette, cocktail sauce and accompaniments. It was fresh, cold and tasty and we enjoyed everything thoroughly but for the clams (just personal preference there…)

A simple assortment of crunchy crudites and salty olives with creamy dipping sauce, homemade pickles, and invitingly warm rolls were also brought to the table to enjoy. – it was really just what we wanted in its simplicity. A nice touch!

As mentioned, the wine list is short but beautifully on point. To accompany my companion’s King’s Cut of Prime Rib and my Prime Filet Mignon, we ordered the Peter Michael 2008 “Les Pavots”. It was elegant and deep both flavour and colour. A great accompaniment to the hearty flavours of our beef entrees, the accompanying rich sauce and the earthy wild mushrooms.

A gorgeous – and perfectly complementary – wine from Peter Michael Winery

I should make mention at this point of the great, attentive (but not at all instrusive) service. A perfect blend of care, conversation, and privacy. The general atmosphere was warm, pleasant and jovial. A family sat next to us, and elsewhere couples and groups of friends met for a great meal and great time.

Now, shall I show the beef again? Yes, yes I will:

I mean, this is why you go to Keens, for the beef they’ve been doing forever, dry-aged right there on their premises. It was perfectly seasoned and prepared, and each bite was decadent and delicious. You can taste it, can’t you?

Now, we’d read about the (even more?) famous mutton chop, listed first and called ‘Legendary’ on the menu. Someone at the adjacent table ordered it and it did look impressive to say the least, but we don’t regret having the amazing prime beef. (Next time, right?)

Well…we were more than satisfied, but we weren’t going to wander back to our hotel (and the next day ultimately all the way home) without one last taste of dessert. So, we shared a massive Butterscotch Sundae – yes, ice cream and a hot, beautiful butterscotch sauce are buried somewhere under all the beautiful whipped cream! Paired with glasses of cognac recommended by our server, it was a masterful finish to a delicious meal.

If you go to New York and love a traditional steakhouse experience – or want to try the ultimate one for the first time – do go to Keens.

Keens Steakhouse is located at 72 West 36 Street New York, NY
Call (212) 947 363 for reservations.

Visit www.keens.com to view the menu, read about the restaurant’s intriguing history, and for more information.