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Review of 1888 Chop House – Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel

November 8, 2018 By karin Leave a Comment

The 1888 Chop House is the principal fine dining option at the Banff Springs Hotel. Located in the space of the former Banffshire Club, this iteration of fine dining skews a bit more to the casual and accessible. Gone are the gourmet tasting menus, the formal decor and china, the tables and seating seem a bit more contemporary and laid back than I remember – even the approach to dress seems to be more casual than in the past. (You certainly wouldn’t be in the wrong to dress for a special occasion, but this is an upscale steak house and that’s what it feels like.)

You may have read in my earlier post about our harrowing journey to the Banff Springs. We had reservations at 1888 for 7:00pm, and ended up texting and calling the restaurant several times to change plans en route as snow and sleet and standstill traffic barred the way (we had expected to be at the hotel in the early afternoon). We were so grateful to be accommodated, and ended up miraculously sliding into our chairs at 8:45 pm, about the time of their last seating. Our waiter slid the restaurant’s famous champagne cart up to our table – familiar to us from the Banffshire Club days – and we promptly requested two glasses of Veuve Cliquot Rose to toast the way the day turned out in the end!

Next order of business: food. We were hungry and ready for a great meal. We started off with the 1888 Caesar Salad, served on a chilly and very attractive slate plate. It was a really nice take on the classic.

The salads were served with fresh, warm buns and butter.

We knew we would both be having beef (we’d been dreaming of luscious steaks all day), but we had to settle on a wine. The restaurant has an excellent wine list, quite reasonably priced, and with a variety of excellent choices. We chose a 2013 Joseph Phelps Insignia, a bordeaux blend from Napa. The colour as you can gather from the photos was a very deep, dark purple – gorgeous, actually. A big wine that was amazing to wave under the nose as well as to sip, bold but silky. Paired amazingly well with our steaks, as we expected!

I chose the Brant Lake Wagyu Tenderloin with herbed butter, not always available, but on the menu that evening. I’m really glad it was – it was rich and buttery (the steak, not just the butter) and full-flavored. I’m quite sure my portion exceeded the 7oz. listed. For him – the Brant Lake Wagyu Striploin with herbed butter (unfortunately, I can’t locate a photo, but it was scrumptious).

Brant Lake Beef Tenderloin topped with Herbed Butter

Sides are served a la carte and made to share. We love wild mushrooms with steak, so that choice was easy. And we’d read high praise for the Braised Rustic Carrots with Brown Butter. It turned out to be a really spectacular dish – monster-sized carrots split lengthwise (but really, good – still very flavorful), then braised in brown butter. Sweet, savory and wonderful texture, very pretty on the wooden board it was served on. Definitely recommend it!

This was a great meal with excellent, attentive service. And while we were totally exhausted from our drive, we decided nevertheless to enjoy the the 100 years of Tawny Port (10,20,30 and 40 Year). Impressive, and always a great opportunity to directly compare the different appearance, nose and taste as the port ages.

Forty years of Tawny Port (10, 20, 30, 40)

After that, we called it a night and looked forward to the second meal we had planned for 1888…

…And so, on to Dinner #2 at 1888 Chop House!

I began once again with Veuve Cliquot Rose Champagne, while for him – one of the restaurant’s signature sidecar, the ‘Pale & Dry’ (from the Sidecars’ Library, no less). Tasty, although a bit too tart for his taste, this sidecar was made with Delamain XO, Grand Marnier, and lemon juice. And unfortunately it took a while to arrive at the table (my bubbly was already losing some of its sparkle). While we still enjoyed our meal overall, there was a strange combination that evening of certain parts of the meal being rushed, while others (like cocktails) took a while. This took away a bit from what we were hoping would be a leisurely, luxurious meal. However, service and pacing at our previous meal was perfect, so without further evidence. I choose to see this as a blip and hope that if you go that you find that to be the case, too.

1888's craft sidecar — 1888’s craft sidecar

Moving on to the good stuff, I greatly enjoyed the evening’s featured soup, a velvety and rich cauliflower soup with parmesan oil and cheddar. My dining companion had a wedge salad with 1888’s ‘spin’ – cubes of meaty lardons and a Mans pickled egg.

Always the highlight, we perused the wine menu once again, this time heading to France and choosing the 2010 Chateau Gazin from Pomerol.

This wine will definitely be enjoyable for years to come, but we don’t regret tasting it now. Beautiful purple colour, and all the characteristics of a fine wine from Pomerol. Mmmmm…

For the main course – he went with steak again, a massive 24 oz. rib eye with a sea salt baked potato (fully loaded and ‘lardoned’ of course) and an order of wild mushrooms. It was delicious, but most certainly eclipsed by the Brant Lake Wagyu cuts we’d enjoyed at our previous meal.

I enjoyed my selection very much – a roasted chicken breast with braised carrot, a bright, cheerful carrot foam, charred shallots (really brought out the sweet side of the shallot!) and a golden, delicate buttermilk potato pave. Hard to compare this with the beef tenderloin I had the other night as they’re so very different; but I wouldn’t hesitate to have the chicken again.

Roast Chicken Breast with carrot foam, charred shallots, and buttermilk potato pave.

I had to throw in the towel so to speak after my meal finishing the evening with a cup of herbal tea. For him – the molten chocolate lava cake and a sip of Pappy Van Winkle, which he was thrilled to find on the menu.

Molten Chocolate Lava Cake, Pappy Van Winkle

For more information or to make reservations, visit www.1888chophouse.com

Keens Steakhouse – New York, NY

May 14, 2018 By karin Leave a Comment

An impressive rib eye at Keens Steakhouse

I think this photo of the Prime Rib of Beef (King’s Cut) says just about everything you need to know about Keens Steakhouse. This place is seriously old school, with honest, generous fare. You also get the feeling that little has changed over the 100+ years since its establishment – from the menu to the decor to the quality service – and that’s a very good thing.

In fact, a reminder of Keens’ traditions hangs right above your head as you dine. Apparently the largest of its kind, there is a collection of tens of thousands of churchwarden pipes adorning the ceiling. Keens kept the pipes ‘checked in’ for patrons at the restaurant for use when they came to dine. Pipes belonged to such illustrious gentlemen as Teddy Roosevelt and Albert Einstein, and other notable members.

Churchwarden pipes – a fascinating tradition

Here’s a peek at the menu, more evidence that Keens does a few things, and does them very well:

The wine list is similarly to-the-point – hardly the phone book of some places – but we also found it to be expertly curated with great wines to pair with beef. (Terrific selection of after-dinner liquors as well):

Wine list curated for an old school steakhouse

But before getting to after dinner, let’s begin at the beginning, which for us (fittingly) was with a Manhattan – very nice!

As this was our final evening in NYC, we decided to take our time, enjoy and not hold back in any way. So, knowing beef was still to come, we began by sharing the generous chilled seafood tray complete with lobster tail, jumbo shrimp and a selection of oysters and clams with the expected mignonette, cocktail sauce and accompaniments. It was fresh, cold and tasty and we enjoyed everything thoroughly but for the clams (just personal preference there…)

A simple assortment of crunchy crudites and salty olives with creamy dipping sauce, homemade pickles, and invitingly warm rolls were also brought to the table to enjoy. – it was really just what we wanted in its simplicity. A nice touch!

As mentioned, the wine list is short but beautifully on point. To accompany my companion’s King’s Cut of Prime Rib and my Prime Filet Mignon, we ordered the Peter Michael 2008 “Les Pavots”. It was elegant and deep both flavour and colour. A great accompaniment to the hearty flavours of our beef entrees, the accompanying rich sauce and the earthy wild mushrooms.

A gorgeous – and perfectly complementary – wine from Peter Michael Winery

I should make mention at this point of the great, attentive (but not at all instrusive) service. A perfect blend of care, conversation, and privacy. The general atmosphere was warm, pleasant and jovial. A family sat next to us, and elsewhere couples and groups of friends met for a great meal and great time.

Now, shall I show the beef again? Yes, yes I will:

I mean, this is why you go to Keens, for the beef they’ve been doing forever, dry-aged right there on their premises. It was perfectly seasoned and prepared, and each bite was decadent and delicious. You can taste it, can’t you?

Now, we’d read about the (even more?) famous mutton chop, listed first and called ‘Legendary’ on the menu. Someone at the adjacent table ordered it and it did look impressive to say the least, but we don’t regret having the amazing prime beef. (Next time, right?)

Well…we were more than satisfied, but we weren’t going to wander back to our hotel (and the next day ultimately all the way home) without one last taste of dessert. So, we shared a massive Butterscotch Sundae – yes, ice cream and a hot, beautiful butterscotch sauce are buried somewhere under all the beautiful whipped cream! Paired with glasses of cognac recommended by our server, it was a masterful finish to a delicious meal.

If you go to New York and love a traditional steakhouse experience – or want to try the ultimate one for the first time – do go to Keens.

Keens Steakhouse is located at 72 West 36 Street New York, NY
Call (212) 947 363 for reservations.

Visit www.keens.com to view the menu, read about the restaurant’s intriguing history, and for more information.

Del Frisco’s Double Eagle Steakhouse – New York, NY

May 1, 2018 By karin Leave a Comment

We arrived in New York City for a whirlwind vacation at around 1:30pm. After checking in at the Kimpton Muse, we hit the streets to soak in the city and to find some lunch.

We seemed to stumble upon iconic location after iconic location in just a few blocks…

New York Public Library (Ghostbusters, anyone?)

…And eventually, we arrived at one of the ultimate sites – Rockefeller Center. At this point, we couldn’t wait any longer to eat after travel with an early start – so we were glad to find Del Frisco’s Double Eagle Steakhouse right there.

It was almost pleasant enough to eat outside on this last day of March, but we opted for an inside table. It was bustling and energetic in there, but not overly busy. Soon, we were seated, and with beverage in hand.

The menu offered the classic steakhouse choices as you’d expect, from shrimp cocktail to a blue cheese lettuce wedge, and even a ‘business lunch’ section including starter and entree for $32.50. Prices are not low, but portions are fairly generous and the food was certainly good.

Though you could opt for a 16 oz. steak and stuffed baked potato including shaved truffle, we both went with more “lunchy” options. For him, the Wagyu Beef French Dip, a generous sandwich served on a crusty baguette with au jus and horseradish sauce ($23). With a choice of fries, chips, or salad he went with the side-salad to freshen things up. Washed down with a beer, lunch was good.

I chose the Prime Steak Salad (and somehow neglected to take a picture to show it off, although you can see it if you look carefully in the background of the Wagyu French Dip shot). It was very yummy and rich with its blue cheese crumbles and avocado, and a really zippy horseradish dressing ($25 – generous portion and satisfying).

All in all, a nice find for an upscale, relaxing lunch.

Del Frisco’s Double Eagle Steakhouse is located at 1221 Ave of the Americas, New York, NY. To view the menu and information on other locations, visit www.delfriscos.com

Gotham (Vancouver, BC)

November 3, 2004 By karin Leave a Comment

Gotham Restaurant There’s something dark, elegant and suggestive of extravagance in the name Gotham. Gotham Steakhouse and Cocktail is a high-end steakhouse in downtown Vancouver, Canada. As its name might suggest, the interior of the restaurant is dark, elegant and yes, even somewhat extravagant in its brooding glamour. Tones of rich, chocolatey brown abound on the walls and in the furnishings, larger than life artwork evokes a stylized version of the swing-jazz era.

The menu is brief and honest as should be expected from a restaurant under the same ownership as Hy’s Steakhouse. At Gotham, there is even more emphasis on serving the best version of traditional steakhouse fare. You are offered simple appetizers, like shrimp cocktail, fried calamari, oysters, crabcakes, beefsteak tomato and red onion salad with blue cheese. We highly recommend the Caesar Salad; we’re always seeking out a version with the best spin on this familiar recipe (must include copious quantities of garlic, of course). Gotham’s take on Caesar was a hit.

Accompaniments to your steak main course (would you really choose anything else?) are served “family style” to share. To put this in perspective, even the potato was supremely shareable and at the recommendation of our server, this is precisely what we did. Half of an enormous, Baked Idaho potato was served to each of us. Even looking at this beast gave me carpel tunnel syndrome. We soon stopped gawking and started eating as we drowned this perfectly baked treat in butter and sour cream.

The steak was quite divine. Devoid of decorative sauces or distracting spices, we were served generous portions (the porterhouse being consumed next to us nearly tipped the table) of perfectly medium rare, beefy goodness. Definitely a steak worth writing home about and coming back for.

We accompanied this much anticipated meal with an absolute treat – the Torbreck RunRig 2001 (Barossa Valley, Australia). This wine is a true gem – a deeply-coloured, full-bodied shiraz with intense flavours of berry, espresso and spice and a wonderfully long finish. It is sure to please palettes that seek out the bold and the beautiful! You need something big to go with your honest-to-goodness steak at Gotham, so go large and get the RunRig or something like it (if you can!).

We recommend Gotham for its swing-era ambience, friendly service, and food that does not pretend to be anything other than it is – simple, top quality, and awesome.

For more information or to make reservation, call (604) 605-8282 or visit www.gothamsteakhouse.com.

Prime (Las Vegas, NV)

June 5, 2003 By karin Leave a Comment

Prime accurately describes its décor and ambience as that of a “1930’s speak-easy”. The rich glossy wood of the furnishings, chocolate colored walls, and powder blue draperies evoke a more elegant and stylish time. Despite the overall elegant/retro feel of Prime, oversized art pieces and gigantic vases filled to overflowing with dried flowers inject a contemporary perspective. Of course, one cannot omit noting the spectacular view offered of Lake Bellagio and its famous fountains through the large windows along Prime’s outside wall. Be aware that the dining room is large with partitions throughout and that you cannot view the water show from all tables. For those wanting this view, we recommend booking as early as possible with your request for a table near the windows. Even still, be prepared to be told that your wish cannot be accommodated at this extremely popular restaurant…but go anyway for the beef!

As promised by the restaurant’s very name, the prime beef served was among the best we have ever tasted. The Aged Peppercorn New York Striploin was grilled to perfection, arriving at our table piping hot
and impossibly juicy and tender. The beef sliced like butter and literally melted on the tongue. The meal was accompanied by sweet and flavorful spaghetti squash as well as an array of sauces for the beef,
including a traditional au jus, bearnaise, and a soy-citrus vinaigrette. The sauces were quite good, but the superb beef really had no need of additional dressing. We each ordered Truffle Mashed Potatoes, a rich, creamy side dish to accompany our steak. Though delicious, we found the portion to be overly generous, and one that could easily be shared by two people.

The experience of Prime’s striploin tends to overshadow other aspects of our meal. However, reaching back into the recesses of our pre-beef life, we recall beginning with a Chilled Shrimp Cocktail. Our decision
to share a single order was wise as the paradox of jumbo shrimp has never been made clearer than by this dish. Four incredibly enormous shrimp were served on a bed of shredded ice and accompanied by both a
traditional cocktail sauce and a more unusual soy citrus vinaigrette. The latter was pleasant, but we preferred the cocktail sauce that delivered just the right amount of zest from fresh grated horseradish.
The chef also offered a tasting of a warm butternut squash soup which was creamy, comforting and mildly sweet.

In an unusual twist, we went with a Pinot to accompany our meal. The Sokol Blosser Pinot Noir 1999 (Oregon) was our server’s suggestion. Since we tend toward bolder cabs and shiraz with beef, we were
pleasantly surprised and intrigued by this unique Pinot Noir whose flavor improved significantly throughout our meal. (Hey – if you can’t gamble in Vegas, you’re out of luck from the start.)

For dessert, chocolate reigned in the form of a rich Warm Valrhona Chocolate Cake with homemade vanilla ice cream accompanied by truly excellent coffee.

Our only slight disappointment was in the service experience. It was generally quite attentive, but initially a little confusing. The dining room was quite full, which probably accounts for the longer than usual wait for our main server’s attention and the oversight in not being immediately presented with a wine list. However, the rare Pinot Noir he recommended was worthwhile and performed as he promised.

The food at Prime is exceptional and the ambience/decor alone may even be worth the visit. Our only regret is that, since no other seatings were available during our stay, we could not sample Prime’s versions
of other cuts of beef. Book early (and book often) if you are a beef aficionado!

Overall Experience
We give Prime 4 Stars- Excellent

Prime is located in the Bellagio Hotel at 3600 Las Vegas Blvd South, Las Vegas, NV 89109. For more information or to make reservations, call 702.693.7223, or visit www.bellagio.com.