Prince Edward Island Archives - Small Barrels Magazine

Shipwright Inn (Charlottetown, PEI)

August 2, 2009 By karin Leave a Comment

Just a pleasant summer stroll away from the Charlottetown harbour front is the Shipwright Inn, a lovingly restored home originally built by shipbuilder James Phillips Douse in 1865. The quiet, treed neighbourhood and utterly charming architecture of the Inn creates a feeling of being tucked away despite staying in the city.

Innkeepers Judy and Trevor welcome you with a wonderful warmth and make it clear that you will enjoy first-class hospitality. Judy is a vibrant, energetic hostess whose cheer is infectious and who makes you feel immediately well-cared for. Despite the enveloping friendliness of your first moments at the Inn, you will not find the service at all intrusive. Your will feel treated as honoured guests with your privacy respected, and all of your needs met.

Upon your first glance around the interior of the Inn, it will become clear that your hosts enjoy the home that they have worked hard to outfit with modern comforts, subtly incorporated to maintain the building’s heritage feel, and gracious touches of old world charm. Intriguing antiques grace the lobby, dining area and guest rooms. Little touches throughout your room and throughout the entire Inn – extra blankets here, fresh lemonade and home baked goodies for afternoon tea there – make you feel that every detail has been thought of, and then some. We greatly appreciated our hosts’ friendly, welcoming nature as well as their knowledge of the neighbourhood and excellent dining and day trip suggestions.

Our accommodations were on the second floor of the Inn. The Officer’s Wardroom, is a spacious suite with a large lounging area, a very comfortable bedroom with a private deck, and generous master bathroom complete with luxurious air tub. The décor theme had an intriguing Eastern flair, with Japanese furnishings, lamps and collectibles. The room’s signature antique piece was the king bed’s headboard, made from the home’s original doors, a testimony to Judy and Trevor’s efforts to preserve the building’s unique heritage.

Our suite also had a fridge and kitchenette area well stocked with coffee, tea and hot chocolate. We were impressed by the very spacious closet, which was virtually a room itself. All around, the accommodations were unique, generous and very comfortable, kept spotlessly clean and thoughtfully stocked by the Inn staff. It was a wonderful place to spend a few nights, and we would have gladly stayed longer – maybe next time!

Being a bed and breakfast, we also enjoyed a wonderful breakfast menu each morning, including delicious fare such as Belgian waffles, eggs and ham, fresh baked muffins with lovely local jams always on the table, fresh juice, good coffee, and of course, friendly, attentive service. A scrumptious and relaxing way to begin the day!

The Shipwright Inn is in a quiet, safe neighbourhood within walking distance of Charlottetown’s major attractions, such as the harbour front, boardwalk, Victoria Park, the Arts center, shopping, and a myriad of wonderful restaurants. We highly recommend it if you plan to stay in Charlottetown.

Overall Experience
We give the Shipwright Inn 4 and 1/2 Stars- Outstanding!

The Shipwright Inn is located at 51 Fitzroy Street, Charlottetown, Prince Edward Island. For hotel reservations call 888.306.9966, or visit http://www.shipwrightinn.com/

Inn at St. Peters (St. Peters, PEI)

July 1, 2009 By karin Leave a Comment

Anne of Green Gables is Lucy Maud Montgomery’s most famous literary creation. But there’s another character in the Anne books that is arguably just as important as Anne–and that is the setting of Prince Edward Island itself. You can open up any of the stories of Anne Shirley and lose yourself in Montgomery’s masterful reflections of Canada’s fair island. Or you can go there yourself and experience it firsthand.

We fell in love with Prince Edward Island in the summer of 2007. On that trip, we based ourselves in Charlottetown and explored the central and eastern side of the island, discovering the charm of its red, sandy beaches, sleepy villages, and awesome ocean views. On one of our last daytrips, we discovered St. Peter’s Bay, a picturesque inlet and home to beaches, forest trails, and a sense of quiet solitude. We vowed to return here next time.

Two years later, we booked a stay at the Inn at St Peters, an intimate hotel on the St Peters Bay waterfront. A short drive from Charlottetown, the town of St Peters is a lovely, quiet and inviting place. The approach to the town is dominated by the bay itself, and a great, white church across the water, on the same side as the Inn. Head toward the church, turn left, and you are almost there.

Waterfront King Suite at The Inn at St. Peters (PEI, Canada) — Waterfront King Suite at The Inn at St. Peters

The Inn itself is the ideal place for a restful retreat. Innkeepers Karen and Garth have done a wonderful job creating an environment that is beautiful and welcoming. They extend warm hospitality and a “let us know what you need” atmosphere, yet your privacy is always respected. Reception takes place in the great building, which also houses the large, airy dining room. Accommodations are housed separately from the main building, and just a short stroll away. The grounds are immaculately kept, and gorgeous flowers bloom in neat, winding rows along pretty walking paths. (We were amazed at how green and n bloom everything was for our mid-June stay. The huge clusters of irises were especially breathtaking). The peaceful inlet, lush green grass, and elegant flowers invite calm and relaxation.

Our King Suite was also very pleasing. Spacious, and spotlessly clean, we enjoyed a comfortable sitting area, fireplace, TV and DVD player, as well as a deck overlooking the water. The Suite is a single room, so there is no private bedroom/lounging space. However, this did not affect our enjoyment as we spent our days outside enjoying hikes and scenic drives, and our evenings lingering over delicious cuisine at the Inn’s dining room.

The Beautiful Waterfront Property of The Inn at St. Peters

I suppose here’s the perfect time to mention the gourmet dining provided by Chefs John Haines and Tracy Wallace. It was certainly a highlight of our stay. Sumptuous first courses included offerings such as “Nova Style” House Smoked Salmon with Avocado Oil and St. Peters Bay Mussels (from but a few feet away!) steamed in White Wine, Butter and Rosemary Cream Sauce. Noteworthy mains included Lobster Ravioli in a Garlic Infused Cream Sauce, and Bacon Wrapped Filet Mignon with Aged Cheddar Croquette Potato, Shiitake Mushrooms, Caramelized Shallots and Balsamic Grilled Vegetables (landlubbers are not excluded here.) A fine wine list added to our enjoyment, and Karen, who was often present in the dining room, shared her knowledge and enthusiasm about wine with us.

We stayed at the Inn for five nights; a rejuvenating amount of time. Our particular vacation package included a nightly three-course dinner, as well as a full, hot breakfast. It was too much food, really, but far better than leaving you wanting. Other packages at the Inn include first-class golf, cycling day trips, and a “City and Sea” package where you share your holiday between the Inn at St Peters, and the attractive Shipwright Inn near Charlottetown’s harbour front. We opted for the dining package, and chose our recreational activities depending on our mood day to day.

Beautiful Views Overlooking St. Peters Bay

We found ourselves exploring the trails and parabolic dunes in nearby Greenwich park (also home to a spectacular interpretive center – literally just down the road from the Inn), driving along the eastern coastline of the island, stopping in quaint little nearby towns for steamed lobster lunches, and getting acquainted with the quiet, peaceful rhythm of this lovely part of Prince Edward Island. (We developed a particular fondness for Rick’s Fish and Chips, a small dining establishment about a five minute drive from the Inn, especially the restaurant’s deep-fried scallops. Worth checking out!)

A note on nature – at the time of year we visited (mid-June), we found the mosquito population thriving. Apparently mosquito fogging is not done on the Island. Especially on hiking expeditions in treed areas, we recommend that you bring along bug spray for maximum enjoyment. Beach excursions are another matter – but if you are heading for the trees, be aware that you might have some irritating company.

Charlottetown is a beautiful place to stay, and hardly a big, bustling city. However, for an even deeper sense of peace and seclusion, consider beautiful St Peters Bay.

Overall Experience
We give the Inn at St Peters 4 and 1/2 Stars – Outstanding!

The Inn at St Peters is located at 1668 Greenwich Rd, St. Peters Bay, PEI. For hotel reservations call 800.818.0925, or visit http://www.innatstpeters.com/

Flex Mussels (Charlottetown, Prince Edward Island)

August 30, 2007 By karin Leave a Comment

You know those evenings that you will never forget? Where everything is just perfect? I must classify a marvellous meal at Flex Mussels in Charlottetown P.E.I as just such an evening – one where everything is ideal, and all the more so because nothing was planned.

We arrived in Charlottetown in the late afternoon/ arly evening, thinking that we’d likely order a pizza and “begin” our vacation the next morning. Though not the sort of trial that requires pity, traveling can be exhausting.

Perhaps it was something in the salty sea air, or the relief of getting away from at all. Most likely it was the knowledge that fresh Atlantic seafood was merely steps away from our hotel. Far from feeling like calling it a night, we took the easy stroll down to the waterfront, not two minutes from our lodgings at The Great George.

The waterfront area was smaller than we had imagined, but in an easy, quaint way that reflects the whole experience of Prince Edward Island. The eclectic shops, homemade candy and ice cream parlours, and handicraft shops were charming. And before we knew it, we were standing at the entrance of Flex Mussels, a harbour-side seafood restaurant which we had heard great things about. In fact, we had reservations there for the very next night.

But there were several outdoor tables available on this gorgeous August evening. The stars were out, a faint breeze whispered through the air, and strings of white lights glittered above. Besides these picturesque details, fresh mussels were being steamed mere feet away. We requested a table. Surely there are worse fates than eating mussels by the pound two perfect summer nights in a row.

We were well-rewarded by our willingness to accept serendipity and to add an additional seafood dinner to our itinerary. The service was exceptionally friendly; professional, yet laid-back and comfortable in a truly Maritime fashion. And the menu is straightforward and tantalizing: mussels. Any which way.

Of course, there is more to Flex Mussels than just mussels, although they certainly steal the show. We began our meal with a tasting of oysters, also caught locally, and shucked by champion oyster shuckers on right site.Though I’m sure my palette has yet mastered the nuances of Colville, Carr’s and Raspberry Point, I’m quite willing to continue my schooling. They were all delicate, exotic and delicious, accompanied by a half a dozen homemade sauces, including a tasty fresh-grated horseradish, and a variety of other flavours.

Then the real fun began as we tried to decide which “flavour” of mussels we wanted to savour. We decided that we couldn’t go wrong with the “traditional” – mussels prepared with celery, pale ale, fresh garlic. But the “medusa” sounded equally intriguing, with its lemon, oregano, virgin olive oil, and feta, to say nothing of the “funghi”, “parisienne”, and “phantom”. In the end, we ordered the “traditional” and the “provençal”(sweet herbs, garlic, fresh tomato), and rejoiced that we had a whole other evening to sample something else (we came back and had the “thai”, made with green curry, lemongrass, ginger, coriander, coconut milk, and the “maine”, with baby clams, cream, fresh parsley.) They were scrumptious! As fresh from the ocean as possible, and as hot as can be, the mussels were tender, sweet, and the tasty sauces and fixings were perfect. Flex Mussels earns its reputation as having the best mussels in P.E.I. in our books – at least, it’s hard to imagine tastier fare. Wash it down with a crisp clean Canadian wine (Pelee Island – a Chardonnay of night one, and a Sauvignon Blanc the next), and you are experiencing Atlantic seafood fare at its finest.

Though the mussels are of course the piece de resistance, the story of our perfect evening at our chance meal would be incomplete without mention of the homemade French fries. I am personally not a fry fanatic. I rarely order them with burgers, the most traditional of fry contexts. But P.E.I. potatoes are legendary, and so are there fries –at least those served up at Flex Mussels.

We finished our perfect evening with perfect desserts, made on site. I had a heavenly lemon meringue pie with a buttery, crumbly graham cracker crust served in a personal cast iron pan. My dining companion, chocolate afficianado, had a tempting dessert called “the chocolate one”, made with white, dark, and milk chocolate, described aptly with the words “it’s all good”. That’s how we felt about our whole meal, from the casually romantic outdoor atmosphere, to the friendly service, and most especially to the marvellous food: “it’s all good”.

I would like to say our second evening was just as perfect as the first. Though there was nothing to complain about, the service was much slower, and some dessert items ran out by the time it came the moment for sweets. Still, what else did we have to than wait for fresh, hot mussels and chilled white wine? And the memory of the previous evening was still reverberating with its own seafood karma. You can’t always repeat those perfect evenings that you don’t plan, but you can come close. And when it’s this good, close is rather enjoyable.

Great George (Charlottetown, PEI)

August 25, 2007 By admin Leave a Comment

It seems to me that you could spend a lifetime exploring Canada. “From Sea to Sea”, there are so many breathtaking sights, pristine landscapes, and fascinating cities to experience. And no matter where you go, you’re sure to find that comfortable and friendly Canadian character.

Charlottetown, the lovely, waterfront capital of Canada’s Prince Edward Island, is no exception. A gem of the maritime provinces, Charlottetown offers something for everyone. The wharf is the centerpiece, where you’ll find pleasing views, great seafood eating (especially Flex Mussels – not to be missed!), and unique shopping. You can get to know Charlottetown by foot (or walk off all those seafood dinners!) by following the boardwalk along the shoreline – a pretty stroll passing by parks and greenspaces, and quaint neighborhoods. For history buffs, the road to Canadian Confederation starts here. (You may want to plan on a visit to Founders Hall, a museum/history pavilion and brush up on your confederation facts or stroll by historic landmarks with costumed re-enactors.)

If you rent a car, which we highly recommend, Charlottetown is a great base and starting point for day trips which take you to red sandy beaches, through scenic farmland with gorgeous rolling hills, from lone lighthouse to lighthouse standing guard over the rocky shoreline, and to the recreated dwelling place of the Island’s most famous red-head, Anne of Green Gables. We were thoroughly charmed by the beaches and views at St. Peters, a small town not far from Charlottetown. We also found Cavendish, the tourist-magnet of the Island, to be less busy than we had assumed. Certainly, our visit to Green Gables was relaxing and interesting, and not jam-packed shoulder to shoulder with Anne fans. A fan of the Anne books myself, I was overjoyed at the re-creation of Lovers’ Lane and the Haunted Wood, two short walking trails nestled among the trees on the Green Gables property. And I was truly inspired by the educational film about Lucy Maud Montgomery’s remarkable life and career.

Our enjoyment of Charlottetown was enhanced by the unique character of our hotel, The Great George. Actually several heritage buildings re-developed into Inns, each with their own personality, The Great George will certainly be an important part of your stay. The location of the hotel was quite wonderful, putting us in walking distance of the major attractions of Charlottetown, such as the wharf and its restaurants, the boardwalk, local arts and crafts stores and galleries, the arts and entertainment centre, and also more “generic” shopping destinations – which you just sometimes have to visit!

The Inns at The Great George are linked by The Pavilion Building which, in addition to housing several guestrooms, is the location of a common lobby area. The lobby is furnished like a large, elegant sitting room with plenty of vintage chairs, sofas, and loveseats for lounging with the paper with coffee in the morning, or a drink in the evening. A buffet breakfast is served to guests each morning, with a fine selection of pastries, cereals, fruit, coffee and tea (get up early before the fresh-picked raspberries run out!). Attendants are quick to provide you with small folding tables, and remove dishes quickly, making you feel like a valued guest and surpassing the more usual, “functional” continental breakfast experience. You will also find helpful staff in the Pavilion who generously provide maps, brochures, and great suggestions for island day trips and thing to do closer by.

As for our particular accommodations, we stayed in a spacious suite in the Witter Coombs House. The long room was divided into a generous sitting area, complete with a fireplace, and a sleeping area enhanced by a luxurious Jacuzzi tub. A large bathroom with separate shower completed the room, and high-quality Aveda toiletries were generously provided. The décor was tasteful and comfortable, and housekeeping services was attentive.

The shortcomings of The Great George are few, and mostly due to the same factor that makes it charming: its heritage character. For instance, though air conditioned, the wall-unit was quite noisy and took away slightly from the overall feeling of comfort and relaxation here (though the cool air in the hot August weather was appreciated!). Our particular suite was also adjacent to the parking lot. This proved to be a busy and noisy place, even late into the night with guests coming and going, and visiting with one another on the patio. The parking lot is in itself another drawback for The Great George- space for vehicles is extremely tight in the lot, and street parking is highly restricted. Though this never ultimately resulted in a problem for us, parking was an issue and there was always a lingering feeling of uncertainty about whether or not we would get a space for the night.

These small shortcomings aside, our overall feeling and experience at the Great George can be characterized by elegance, and a sense of welcome. Being in walking distance to the most picturesque sites of the city and the best seafood dining was invaluable. We look forward to a future visit to The Great George, perhaps to one of its other Inns to experience another unique accommodation of this fine establishment.

Overall Experience
We give The Great George 4 Stars – Excellent!

The Great George is located at 58 Great George Street, Charlottetown, Prince Edward Island. For hotel reservations call 1-800-361-1118, or visit www.thegreatgeorge.com.