karin, Author at Small Barrels Magazine

In and Around the Castle – Fairmont Banff Springs Review (Part 2)

November 12, 2018 By karin Leave a Comment

While there’s plenty to do in and just outside of the town of Banff, exploring the historic Fairmont Banff Springs hotel itself as well as its stunning surroundings outside gave us plenty to do.

Below are a few outdoor shots taken on a leisurely afternoon stroll just outside the castle doors.

Here, we’ve just left the ‘new’ lobby entrance and are heading in the direction of town.

A great shot of the hotel nestled in the valley, with the famous pointed peak of Mount Rundle rising just behind it:

Fairmont Banff Springs - The Castle in the Mountain — Fairmont Banff Springs – The Castle in the Mountain

This should give you an idea of the ‘unseasonable’ early October snow fall we experienced – notice how the snow is on the ground but meanwhile the leaves have yet to fully drop:

Venturing just behind the hotel, you’ll find the gorgeous Bow Valley. (Just out of view of this shot to the right is the famous Banff Springs golf course):

"In the Valley Below" — “In the Valley Below”

In the summer months, you can exit to the rear of the hotel (as though heading toward the Waldhaus Restaurant), take an outdoor staircase, and then a picturesque footpath through the woods right down to the Bow Valley and its famous falls. It was too snowy for this route this time, and the other foot-friendly trails were slippery and snow-packed. We managed to get there on foot as we know the area pretty well, but grabbing your car and taking the short drive to the Valley and Falls would be the best option on a slippery, snowy day.

In the hotel's "backyard" — In the hotel’s “backyard”

Here we are walking along the ‘back patio’ of the hotel. (In summer, just on the other side of the canopied space pictured below, the Rundle Lounge opens up onto a patio space with stunning views overlooking the Bow Valley…)

Walking around the Banff Springs hotel — The Hotel’s Back ‘Patio’

Exploring the inside the hotel is just as fun as heading outside. Certainly, there are boutiques and galleries on the lower level of the hotel to check out. But quite honestly my favourite activity is to simply stroll the old corridors and grand halls and let them speak to you.

We spent an afternoon doing this, simply admiring the grandeur and subtleties in the hotel’s careful interior designs, drinking in its storied history, maybe even sensing the genteel ‘ghosts’ of yesteryear as we passed from room after room.

Here is a shot of the old lobby and reception area of the hotel:

Pausing to wonder at the stories behind the antique furnishings and paintings lining corridors like the one below was quite fun. There are so many careful details to fascinate no matter which way you look, from intricate carvings in the stonework to large and impressive vaulted windows. We saw plenty, but who knows what we missed?

And we ourselves didn’t try it, you can opt to join a guided tour. No doubt it would be be full of fascinating facts about the hotel (arrange with the concierge desk):

Castle corridor Banff Springs — Castle corridor

Here is the stunning Mount Stephen Hall being set up for a banquet that evening:

Mount Stephen Hall - Banff Springs — Mount Stephen Hall

And the Cascade Ballroom standing empty that day, but still gorgeous, elegant and grand:

Sadly (for us) both the Alberta and Alhambra Dining Rooms are no more having been re-imagined into very functional conference meeting spaces. We have fond memories dining in both places. Particularly we recall the live music and dancing that lit up the Alberta Dining Room nightly some twenty years ago, and of course for decades before that. Of course, even on our first trips, it felt somewhat out-of-time and you could feel that the era of dining and dancing was already coming to an end. (Better that the rooms are being put to new uses than simply locked away, right? But...sigh...)

Do make the Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel one of your next destinations, and be sure while you’re there to enjoy the living history within its doors, and the most glorious sights nature has to offer just beyond…

For more information or to book a holiday at the “Castle in the Mountains”, visit www.fairmont.com

A Stay at the Castle – Fairmont Banff Springs Review (Part 1)

November 9, 2018 By karin Leave a Comment

This was the view from our king suite at the legendary Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel – the “Castle in the Mountains”. (Yes, this is an actual photo taken with my phone.)

Somehow, I feel I barely need to type another word to convey the feelings of wonder and relaxation brought on by this vacation…

The breathtaking site was all the more incredible coming the morning after what can only be called a harrowing highway drive due to an early autumn snowstorm. The storm turned the 90 minute drive from Calgary into an over six hour ordeal. At 8:30pm rather than our anticipated 2:30pm arrival, we finally made it to “the Castle” — without yet glimpsing the mountains behind the snow clouds and darkness. We were grateful just to be safely off the road, never mind at our intended destination.

Snow storm on Trans Canada Highway — There are mountains just beyond those snow clouds

Many had it far worse. Delays were not only due to slipper roads and visibility issues; several traffic accidents had occurred farther ahead on the road, creating havoc. In fact, the highway was eventually closed, leaving people stranded in their vehicles overnight (can’t imagine…). In our twenty years of travel to the Rockies and making the scenic drive from Calgary to Banff National Park, we have never experienced anything remotely like this, even in winter. (I’m hardly suggesting that this is the norm — but do be warned that dramatic changes in weather can happen when traveling in the mountains at ANY time of year.)

Anyway, after all the stress and drama, you might imagine how we were all the more delighted to be told that we’d been upgraded from a very comfortable king room to a king suite, one of only about eight such rooms overlooking the Bow Valley.

I (really and truly) gasped when I opened our bedroom window the next morning. The dark clouds had cleared, bands of pink and gold morning sunlight stretched over the snow-capped mountains, and suddenly we were here.

The old entrance to the hotel, complete with its snow-topped horse-and-rider statue rising from the center of the cul-de-sac drive, was picture-perfect. I raced into the suite’s living room next to see just how spectacular the Bow Valley would look from our window. Of course, the majestic view was beyond words as you can see above in the first two shots. This is am absolutely magical place to be, and our three-night vacation was just beginning…

The view was the absolute ‘centerpiece’ of our stay, but the suite itself was spacious and very comfortable. The king bed had a Goldilocks “just right” firmness, and the large adjoining living room gave us plenty of room to read, write, stretch out and relax. The bathroom was a decent size (not always the case in these older hotels) and stocked with luxurious rose-scented products from Le Labo.

Something to note: this is an old hotel, built in 1888, rich in history and also rich in design certain quirks. Rooms have been through renovations, re-imaginings, and expansions. Our suite was more than comfortable, but guests should be prepared for the quirky placement of doors, thin walls, odd angles and projections, etc. The service in the hotel overall was excellent; we were a bit wary after a stay we at the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise some years back where service was somewhat spotty and unreliable (rooms not ready, dinner reservations canceled…). This time around, the Fairmont Banff Springs and everyone we encountered on its staff were more than charming.

Above is a shot of the living room. With its valley views, it proved the perfect place to enjoy our scrumptious Rocky Mountain Breakfast for two.

"Rocky Mountain Breakfast" in our room — “Rocky Mountain Breakfast” in our room

Though it took some grit to get here, we woke up in paradise ready for a wonderful stay at the Castle…

For more information or to book a holiday at the “Castle in the Mountains”, visit www.fairmont.com

Vermillion Room – Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel

November 6, 2018 By karin Leave a Comment

The Vermillion Room Bar and Brasserie in the Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel is the latest restaurant iteration in this space overlooking the Bow Valley. At one time, it was the formal Rob Roy dining room – jacket required. Later still, it was the much more casual, and more family-friendly Bow Valley Grill. It’s possible I may be missing a ‘version’ or two, but its current form as The Vermillion Room, it’s a stylish space with an appealing French brasserie menu. I found it brighter, hipper and more vibrant than the Bow Valley Grill – art deco light fixtures and gleaming brass will do that, I suppose. And in my opinion, the new brightened-up design takes better advantage of the stunning mountain view than the interiors of the former restaurants.

We were fortunate to be seated at table gazing across the wide patio and out at the peaks of the Bow Valley itself:

The lunch menu had a nice variety of selections, with familiar French-comfort-cuisine inspired favourites such as the Croque Monsieur, Steak Frites, Roast Chicken, and Soupe a L’Oignon. Prices are on the higher side for a (fairly) casual lunch, but we found the quality of our meals to be quite good. (I’m not sure this restaurant would in fact be described as casual – but it certainly is more so as compared to the 1888 Chop House in the hotel, incidentally not a lunch option).

I had the Salade Nicoise and was very pleased with both the quality of the tuna, and the perfect way it was prepared – rare and just barely warm. The Mans Farm egg was fresh and very tasty, and the fruity olive oil dressing was delicate, slightly warm, and tied the delicate greens and vegetables together with the fish. I paired it with a glass of sweet and lovely Alsatian Pinot Gris.

For my Monsieur, the Croque Monsieur of course – topped with a beautiful fried egg (ingenious). The sandwich was rich, hearty and good – but the fries may have been the meal’s standout feature. Prepared with a delicate truffle oil, I found myself leaning toward his plate just to catch a whiff of the earthy aroma. Hold the ketchup, please.

For dessert – we had the Pot de Creme au Chocololat with French Vanilla Cream and a couple of very good cappuccinos.

Our experience at the Vermillion Room overall was relaxing and leisurely, with tasty food – a fine way to spend a Thursday afternoon. The dining room was fairy empty at this time of day (noting also of course the time of year – early October), and service was a tad on the slow side. It didn’t bother us as we had nowhere to go, but something perhaps to keep in mind if you have a tight itinerary. Also, note that the while restaurant is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner there are closures in between these meals (Breakfast: 7am-11am; Lunch: Noon-3pm; Dinner 5pm-10pm and Weekend Brunch 11am-3pm).

The only meal we had at The Vermillion Room was one very laid back and lazy lunch, so I can’t comment on either breakfast or dinner. My impression is that with its spaciousness and stylish-yet-casual atmosphere, it would be a popular choice for hotel guests for these meals – probably fairly busy and boisterous.

An enjoyable atmosphere – and you can’t beat the view.

For more information on The Vermillion Room, or to make reservations or view its menus, please visit www.vermillionroom.com

Grapes (Charcuterie Bar Cellar) at the Fairmont Banff Springs

November 2, 2018 By karin Leave a Comment

We’ve been staying at the iconic Fairmont Banff Springs Hotel for almost twenty years. This small, tucked-away room had always intrigued me. Formerly, in the hotel’s heyday, the space served as the elegant ‘Writing Room’ for its guests. What an incredible spot this would have been to pen a missive or two about one’s adventures in the Rocky Mountains.

The stonework, woodwork and large vaulted window with lovely stained glass panels show the care and attention that went into even the nooks and crannies of the ‘castle in the mountains’. It’s truly impressive to look at, and fun to imagine guests of long ago sitting near the window perched over pen and paper, looking up at the breathtaking mountain view.

For some time now, the small but beautiful room has served as a wine bar. Reservations are an absolute must as there are only about eight tables in all, plus a few seats right up at the bar. It’s well worth making the booking — quite honestly our meal here was one of the most enjoyable of our hotel stay, owing a lot to the cozy and unique atmosphere. And ambience aside, the menu is also terrific:

Cured meats, smoked fish, handcrafted pates and terrines, a selection of delicious Canadian cheeses, fresh baked breads, artisanal crackers, pickled vegetables and warm olives — and of course a nice selection of wine by the bottle or by the glass. I often think of this as my style of eating – small bites of delicious meats and cheese and treats presented on beautiful boards while sipping wine. In a setting like this, it can hardly be better.

As you can see, the presentation is spectacular – rustic and artistic at the same time. We started off with a wooden ‘basket’ of warm bread and fresh butter, along with a mason jar of warmed olives – so good. We then moved along to the Chef’s Medley Board, quite willing to be surprised and delighted by her customized selections – which we were. The cured meats were delicately shaved just before serving, and piled up in generous, tempting mounds of goodness. On our board was paper-thin speck, bison, and smoked duck (in the photo below, start from the bottom and move your eyes up the board). Interspersed among the meats were scrumptious pickled vegetables (cauliflower, beets, asparagus, carrots) and three gorgeous chesses: Britannia 3-year cheddar, Pacific Rock with washed rind, and the lovely Bleu Fume (we love a pungent blue, but this milder take would be more widely appealing, I think). Tying the board together were the dollops of homemade jams: blueberry ( – I think! Unfortunately my notes are sketchy on this one), a savory green tomato, and a spicy peach.

Grapes Charcuterie Board - Chef's Selection — Grapes Charcuterie Board – Chef’s Selection

Though wines were available by the glass, we opted for a bottle of Pinot Noir knowing it would pair well with just about anything we ordered – and we planned to keep our options open! We chose the 2012 Sokol Blosser enjoying every berry warm/spicy sip.

And then, even more fun ensued. Even after feasting on the bread, butter, olives and charcuterie board above, it was hard for us to ignore the incredible fish boards that kept drifting passed our table. We just had to add it to the meal.

The fish board was another feast for the eyes, with delicate pieces of house hot smoked salmon, crispy black pepper crackers, crackers baked with licorice-y caraway seeds, and a dollop of grainy mustard.

To finish the sumptuous meal of many treats, we ordered a generous wedge of Le Cendre des Pres, a triple-cream Quebec brie with a line of maple ash in its center, and fruity jam. Paired with a glass of Chardonnay, the night was complete.

I have to make a special note of the truly great service we enjoyed here at Grapes. There were only two servers for the room, as well as the chef busily preparing boards behind the bar. Despite the small size of the room, the constant orders of boards, small plates, and ‘a little more this and that’ kept them very busy. They remained very helpful and friendly, with an excellent knowledge of the menu. Impressive!

Make a stop at Grapes a must on your next stay at the Fairmont Banff Springs (but make reservations!).

For more information about Grapes Charcuterie Bar Cellar, call 403-762-6860 or visit the restaurant’s webpage at www.fairmont.com . Reservations can be made by calling 403-762-6860 or through Open Table.

Balkan Restaurant – Banff, Alberta

November 1, 2018 By karin Leave a Comment

We’ve walked by Balkan Restaurant many times over the years while strolling up and down Banff Avenue. It’s always looked inviting, and the menu seemed delicious, but for one reason or another, we’ve ended up elsewhere for a nosh (probably walking by a little too early or just too late for lunch). This time, we decided the climb the little flight of stairs and have a leisurely lunch here – and it was great!

First of all, you can’t go wrong with the appealing Greek fare on the menu (here’s a sliver):

The interior is a lot more spacious than it might seem from the ‘hole in the wall’ positioning from the street.

High ceilings and lots of natural light, too – much more room than I expected. With large tables for big families and groups, and distinct sections in the dining room, there’s a lot more space than you’d think. Decor was fresh and interesting, too.

Granted, the height of the tourist season had ended, so the place wasn’t exactly hopping (lots of space to breathe and spread out on a lazy Friday afternoon in early October). However, several large family groups were sitting near us,clearly residents of Banff with children enjoying a half day at school. This is obviously a favourite place for those who live around here — and with good cause.

As I mentioned above, the menu is very appealing, family friendly – and of course, ‘feta’ friendly ;). I mean, who doesn’t love big cubes of briny feta cheese? We both had a greek salad (Horiatiki) for $17 – a heaping mound of luscious tomatoes, red onions, olives, cucumbers, peppers, and of course feta cheese and a lovely drizzle of extra virgin olive oil. We had it all topped with juicy morsels of marinated chicken for another $8. The salad did not make for an inexpensive meal, but it was a generous one. Probably could have happily split one between us.

Greek Salad with Chicken at Balkan Restaurant in Banff — Horiatiki with Chicken at Balkan Restaurant in Banff

We would not hesitate to stop here again for lunch and you should, too. (I have my eye on the scrumptious looking Dolmathes…)

Visit Balkan Restaurant in Banff, Alberta at 120 Banff Avenue. For more information, visit the restaurant’s website at www.banffbalkcan.ca or call (403) 762 3454.