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Small Barrels Magazine

Reviews of Fine Wines, Luxury Hotels and the Best Restaurants on Earth

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George V (Paris, France)

September 2, 2004 By karin Leave a Comment

Four Seasons George V Hotel in Paris FranceThe Four Seasons George V, lauded in books and films for decades, meets and surpasses the imagination. From its stunning lobby, richly and elegantly appointed rooms, and unparalled service, George V ensures that the romance of Paris is rendered indelible. Located in Paris’ prestigious 8th arrondissement amid some of the world’s finest shops and restaurants, George V lives up to its reputation of luxury and elegance from the moment you step through the revolving doors.

The lobby is immaculate, with floors of highly polished marble decorated gorgeously with huge arrangements of exotic flowers. Magnificent stone sculptures here and there add to the sense of history permeating the hotel. The reception desk and concierge desk face each other on either side of the room so that your first view is of flowers and the lushly-landscaped courtyard restaurant just beyond the lobby. You are immediately transported from the busy Paris streets just beyond into a world of high-class serenity.

A Suite at the Four Seasons George V Hotel in Paris France
A Suite at the Four Seasons George V Hotel in Paris France

Though many guests stay at George V, there is a sense of openness and spaciousness about the hotel. High ceilings and elegant yet never fussy decorative details add to this feeling. Our particular room had a large balcony overlooking the verdant courtyard. Though you never feel away from city life, the hotel spares no effort to make the city a luxurious experience for their guests.



Just outside the hotel doors are some of the world’s most luxurious shops. Designer names that almost anyone would recognize – Hermès, Versace, Armani, Louis Vuitton – are mere footsteps away. And at George V, you are in the very heart of the Paris the whole world imagines. The Champs Elysées is mere moments away, and you can easily walk to many of Paris’ most renowned attractions including the Arc de Triomphe and Place de la Concorde, the Eiffel Tower, and the Louvre.  As for navigating Paris from George V by foot, metro and train, we had very few problems if any, thanks in great part to the superb map supplied by the concierge.

As for our particular accomodations at the hotel, there is no doubt in my mind that Louis XIV never had it so good. In fact, all I wanted to do while day-tripping at hot, sticky, overly ornate, stuffy Versailles was get back to our soothingly coloured, perfectly acclimatized, tastefully decorated room with its massive bathroom, and pillow-soft bed with gazillion-thread- count sheets. Our room was absolutely gorgeous with the best of everything, including a huge bathroom outfitted mostly in marble and providing deliciously scented designer bath products from Italy.

Perhaps Gene Kelly Stayed in this Room?
Perhaps Gene Kelly Stayed in this Room?

Comfortable furniture welcomed us for an afternoon of reading and relaxing. An elegant writing table served as an inspiration for scrawling memoirs and “wish you could see this” postcards. There was even a miniature library of books either about or written at George V – a fine touch for the literary connoisseur.  And that portrait of Gene Kelly beside our bed? Could it mean that the most famous “American in Paris” stayed here? Perhaps or perhaps not… imagination is enouraged by the romance of the room’s surroundings.

Service is, not surprisingly, second to none at this world-class five star hotel. It is said that almost no wish is impossible to fulfill at George V, and you can believe it from the thoughtful, first-class treatment you receive. Your needs are all anticipated, even the ones you didn’t know you had. Service is prompt and expertly executed, whether you need one-hour laundry service, an elaborate in-room meal, tickets to any of Paris’ many attractions, even (so we’ve heard and can readily believe) a pet puppy to commemorate your stay! Housekeeping visits your room twice a day with turn down service, refreshing and replenishing your linens and designer amenities daily.

Beautiful Marble Bathrooms at George V
Beautiful Marble Bathrooms at George V

During our stay, I enjoyed a wonderful manicure at George V’s beautiful spa. The main reception area overlooks the hotel’s indoor pool which is flanked by cozy, comfy lounge chairs and walled by a “trompe d’oeil” garden scene. My aesthetician was friendly and very professional; alternately talkative and silent when I wanted to be. All treatments are performed in private rooms, which I very much appreciated. Soft, glowing lighting and soothing music created a relaxing atmosphere.

Treatments are, not surprisingly, quite expensive here. The emphasis on privacy, relaxation and the use of very high end products does go a long way, however, in justifying the price.English was spoken by all of the friendly staff that I encountered. My only negative comment is that while the spa staff will attempt to accommodate any request, I did find it difficult to secure an appointment at the time of my choice. If you know that you will want to visit the spa during your stay, I would recommend booking any treatments as far ahead as possible to avoid disappointment.

Spacious Marble Shower
Spacious Marble Shower

And now, to business. If Paris is the epicenter of food and wine, then George V and its neighborhood is the epicenter of the epicenter. Le Cinq is the shining culinary light of the hotel, having earned three prestigious Michelin stars. The menu, which combines traditional French cuisine with contemporary dishes and influences, is exquisite and accompanied by an encyclopedic wine list. Renowned establishments like Taillevent, a restaurant that has inspired novels as well as palettes,  are also close by. Excellent, if more casual, dining can be had on the Champs Elysees as well.  What could be more delightfully Parisian than an al fresco dinner and bottle of wine in the shadow of the Arc de Triomphe? Be aware that many restaurants and shops do close for several weeks in the summer (particularly August). Tourists may converge on Paris in summertime, but Parisians need their holidays,too!

Our hotel package included the option of having breakfast in our room or in the restaurant. Our first morning, we chose the restaurant. If truth be told, this was our only disappointment with the hotel – our orders were incorrect, and service was slow and surprisingly inattentive. We chose to dine in our room for the other mornings of our stay, and enjoyed this immensely. The beautiful spread is brought to you and laid out by a thoughtful attendant, who is in and out as quickly as possible. Breakfast is anything but just functional when served with crisp white table linens, plates covered with gleaming silver domes, and your own personal attendant to prepare a comfortable eating space and then whisk it all away.

Al Fresco Room Service Anyone?
Al Fresco Room Service Anyone?

We took advantage of the In-Room dining menu one evening for a fine dinner of French onion soup and lamb with vegetables Provencale style, and sipped wine on our outdoor terrace. The meal was wonderful, although we were rather surprised at the somewhat limited menu offerings. Likely, you can get whatever you request, but we were surprised at the apparent dearth of choice on the menu.

Overall, our experience at George V more than exceeded our highest expectations. The service and luxury were so tremendous, our time in Paris seems almost to be a dream. One that we would not mind having again and again…

Overall Experience
We give George V 5 Stars- Outstanding!

Four Seasons George V is located at 31 avenue George V, 75008 Paris, France. For hotel reservations, call 33 (1) 49 52 70 00. For more information, call 33 (1) 49 52 70 00 , fax 33 (0) 1 49 52 70 10 or visit www.fourseasons.com

Filed Under: Hotel Reviews Tagged With: 5 star, Four Seasons, France, George V, hotel, Paris, Review of George V

Hotel Les Sources de Caudalie (Martillac, France)

August 17, 2004 By karin Leave a Comment

Small Barrels visited Les Sources de Caudalie (Bordeaux-Martillac, France) in July 2004. It is a lovely hotel and spa located in the quaint vineyard countryside of Pessac-Léognan. Tranquility and rest are found in every aspect of the hotel –in the spacious rooms, luxury spa, the hotel’s two notable restaurants, and in taking a stroll by acres of lush grape vines.

Les Sources de Caudalie is situated on a quiet country lane in the famous wine producing area of Pessac-Léognan in the Bordeaux region of France. You are mere footsteps away from the Cru Classés-producing vineyards of Château Smith Haut-Lafitte, and a short drive from the renowned Sauternes area. Most importantly, you are nestled in a quiet, serene part of France – a perfect place to relax, rejuvenate and be restored. Life seems to slow down here; and on vacation, its exactly what you want.



Befitting its country setting, the exterior of Les Sources de Caudalie is plain and simple. The building does not cry out for attention –as though it knows that the true beauty is the land in which it’s nestled. Instead of anything ornate, simple, cream-colored walls are the exterior of choice. Attached structures, such as La Table du Lavoir restaurant and the Vinotherapie, are constructed out of deliberately rustic, weathered wood.

Inside, the look is classic and comfortable and hearkens back to a time and place that you cannot identify precisely; it is simply, before. Leather chairs, framed maps of the world as it was once imagined, and weighty treatises hang on the wall. Plenty of natural light pours in from the many windows – the interior is friendly yet elegant. Each wing of the hotel is inspired by a different theme. Our wing followed the theme of Le Comptoir des Indes. The theme pays tribute to the first days of international trade. Consequently, our particular one-bedroom suite, both spacious and welcoming, was outfitted with furnishings in dark woods, and eclectic lamps and accessories ostensibly collected from some merchant’s travels abroad. Even the draperies, with their old world nautical maps, reflected the romance of the “adventurer merchant” theme. The interior design was very tasteful and the effect was completely charming.

The bathroom in our suite was very large and at the center of which was, very fittingly, a deep, old-fashioned footed tub. The shower, I must say, was a bit disconcerting to one used to a curtain or some sort of separation between shower and surrounding floor – a puddly mess ensued (apparently a very common shower style in France, although this was our only encounter with it on our particular trip). However, the bathroom was the location where generous samples of Vinotherapie spa products were graciously left for us, so it was not all distressing.

The service was excellent – very friendly, professional, and there always seemed to be an air of elegance. For those speaking absolutely no French, you will certainly be accommodated here, on the whole. (However, English-only speakers, do be warned that not all staff members are completely fluent in English.)

Outside across the gravel road are the sprawling vineyards of Château Smith Haut-Lafitte’s. A sea of green foliage in the summer, dotted by intriguing sculptures in curious shapes emerging here and there, the view is at once beautiful and a conversation piece. In our opinion, the best place to take in the grounds is at the hotel’s “casual” yet excellent restaurant, La Table du Lavoir. The restaurant itself has a rustic feel, inspired by the fact that this site used to be where grapepickers would come to wash their clothing. The food is very “honest”, with plenty of vegetables, and wonderful fish dishes. We ate outside for dinner and lunch, and looked out at the Château as we sipped its bounty.

Behind the hotel, is a large, breathtaking pond flanked with weeping willows and inhabited by snow white swans. La Grand’Vigne, the hotel’s signature restaurant, overlooks this idyllic landscape. Its food, incidentally, is also exceptional – and our sommelier (strangely enough, from the UK), had wonderful suggestions. But it was the location itself that set the tone for two excellent meals here. We dined outside under the stars, overlooking the swans that glided by gracefully in the pond below. This is an enchanting place, something right out of a fairytale picture book.

And what would a fairytale be if it weren’t fit for princes and princesses? I was royally pampered in the indulgent Vinotherapie Spa while at Les Sources de Caudalie. All of the expected treatments are available: massage, facial, pedicure, manicure, and much, much more. A few signature “twists” have been performed on the usual suspects as well – for instance, enjoy a jet bath with grapeseed oils in a tub actually shaped like a large wine barrel, with an oak exterior! In fact, all the potions, lotions, tonics and sprays used at the spa are made from none other than grapeseed extracts and other grape byproducts. A very resourceful move as the products are made of the very grapes used in the wine production just across the way at Château Smith Haut-Lafitte. Do the Caudalie products act as a veritable fountain of youth or hold the key to “the secret of the slim French women” as the spa literature suggests? I’m not sure, but I know I found relaxation and indulgence at this spa.

I was quite taken by the pool that dominates the center of the spa. The pool itself is large, and the room that houses it is big, with a high ceiling and huge windows. Comfortable seating is available in abundance in this area, and the room opens up onto a large private deck for lounging under the sun and in the fresh air.

Will you come out looking five years younger and five pounds lighter? Perhaps. You will certainly leave the Vinotherapie with a feeling of serenity and a desire to return.

When you are not strolling the gorgeous grounds, dining, or luxuriating in a grape-based treatment, just what are you to do during your stay at Les Sources de Caudalie? The answer: Wine, wine and more wine. Topping the list of things to do is visiting wineries, learning about wine, and tasting wine.

Our first tour was of Château Smith Haut-Lafitte itself, mere steps from our hotel room. We booked our place on this English language tour in advance through the hotel. Once we arrived, it did seem, however, that tours in both French and English are offered daily. Still, it can’t hurt to make your appointment early, if not only for your own scheduling purposes. (A note on winery tour etiquette – be sure to arrive on time.) Our guide was knowledgeable and personable, and the tour itself was quite fascinating – especially when you contemplate the attention to detail given to the volume of wine produced. We tasted the 1997 vintage – certainly not there greatest, but of course, quite thrilling to sip what had been aged in that very room! The only disappointment was the gift shop. Certainly, you could purchase some wonderful vintages there, but the shop itself was much too warm leaving you unconfident about the quality of the wine subjected to such storage conditions.

Sauternes is also nearby, the region where the likes of Château d’Yquem, Rieussec, Climens, de Malle and other famous wineries are located. We spent an afternoon driving the Circuit des Châteaux du Sauternais and had a lovely, if not occasionally bewildering, time. The countryside is quite pretty if you, like us, enjoy gazing at acres of rows of grapevines. We did find the route to be quite confusing at times, even with a good map. We North Americans weren’t quite used to traffic circles, nor main thoroughfares that suddenly become backalleys (“this can’t be right!” was our refrain). Some tips: 1) don’t plan on doing too much else that day so that if (when) you do lose your way, you have plenty of time to retrace your steps and still enjoy the day, 2) do bring a good map and go over it with someone at the reception desk for some tips and clues (we didn’t do this – maybe you’ll have some luck!), 3) know that when “this can’t be right”, it probably is!

On this “circuitous” journey, we chanced upon Château de Malle, which offered tours without an appointment. We would recommend calling ahead, however, just to check on details such as: if you in fact need an appointment, if and when English tours are offered (we happened to be in time for the French tour), if there is an admission charge (there was a 7 Euro/person charge at de Malle), and any other information.

Even more than with our comfortable suite, excellent food, wonderful service, and the first rate spa, we were most impressed with the location. If you have a picture in your mind about the French countryside, it will most likely be realized at Les Sources de Caudalie. The greenery of the outstretched vineyards, the romance of the pond with its family of graceful swans, the winding, tree-lined gravel roads, the little herb garden in front of the hotel – the memories of the beauty of this idyllic place will remain with us all of our lives.

We give Les Sources de Caudalie 5 Barrels – Outstanding!

Les Sources de Caudalie is a four star establishment. Rates fluctuate depending on the low or high tourist season. Basic rooms begin at 185 Euros (low season) and suites start at 305 Euros (low season). For more information on rates and packages, visit www.sources-caudalie.com. Les Sources de Caudalie is located at Chemin de Smith Haut Lafitte, 33650 Bordeaux-Martillac, France. For more information, contact 33 (0)5 57 83 83 83, fax 33 (0)5 57 83 83 84, email [email protected] or visit www.sources-caudalie.com

Filed Under: Destinations, Hotel Reviews Tagged With: Bordeaux, Caudalie, Caudalie spa, caudalie vineyeard, Chateau Smith Haut-Lafitte, France, Martillac

Hostellerie de Plaisance (St. Emilion, France)

August 11, 2004 By karin Leave a Comment

Hostellerie de PlaisancePerhaps the most ironic thing about our journey to the medieval hilltop town of St. Emilion in our tour of Bordeaux, was our passing a McDonald’s along the way. I can imagine nothing more dramatic with which to juxtapose the ancient, walled city where cars are largely not permitted than the famed golden arches. We may as well have stepped into a time machine.

Finding St.Emilion seemed simpler than finding other places in Bordeaux. I suppose that at this point in our journey we’d finally become more accustomed to the maps, roads and traffic signs that at first had seemed indecipherable. As we neared St. Emilion, the countryside transformed from the rather flat expanses of Pessac-Leognan and Pauillac to a more picturesque, hilly landscape. The drive offered views with a lovely natural quality, and fewer palatial chateaux hovering near the road.

St. Emilion
St. Emilion

Finally, the city of St. Emilion emerged from the landscape as though out of time itself. Fortified with ancient stone walls, St. Emilion was originally built in the 12th century and then rebuilt in later centuries to its present appearance. The steep, cobbled roads weave round, up, and through in a fashion clearly not intended for automobiles. Indeed, traffic is limited to a unidirectional road, and parking, other than in the tourist area at the very top of the city, is nonexistent.



As one may imagine, the layout of this quaint place made it a challenge to find and park at our hotel, Hostellerie de Plaisance (of the Relais and Chateaux chain). Several false starts forced us right through the city; we then had to find the entrance once again due to the one-way road. Finally, we identified our hotel – partly due to the photo that we had printed from the hotel website, partly due to the fact that there was no other place to park our car than right near the hotel, and mostly due to luck.

The Pavie Suite
The Pavie Suite

The Hostellerie de Plaisance is located at the top of St. Emilion, which is also its heart. It is adjacent to a grand, carved stone cathedral that inspires awe in its visitors. The inn, once a monastery, is owned and operated (since 2001) by Madame and Monsieur Perse, also the owners of the renowned Chateau Pavie (Premier Grand Cru Classe), and of Chateau Monbousquet, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru. The interior is beautifully refurbished, offering elegance and modern amenities.

Our room, “Pavie,” was beautifully appointed with rich draperies and fabrics and elegant furniture. The bathroom was very spacious (note to North Americans – the WC is located in a separate room from the bath tub, shower, and sink). But it was the view that was completely breathtaking.

Modern Luxury in St. Emilion
Modern Luxury in St. Emilion

From our room, perched at the very top of this ancient, intriguing city, we could peer over the red-brown shingled roof tops of the snugly-situated buildings and the steeply sloping cobblestone streets. Open-air restaurants with canopied tables spread below us along with a thriving throng of visitors making their way from shop to shop, particularly in the Place du Marche. We could see beyond the city walls as well – and were delighted by the hilly, green vineyards that went on as far as the eye could see.

We dined two nights at the hotel’s restaurant and ate under the stars. We enjoyed a similar view of the city below as we ate the exquisite offerings of Chef Philippe Etchebest. Of particular note was an incredible, almost indescribable entree – a lasagne with foie gras, forest mushrooms, black truffles, and an amazing creamy sauce. The tender layers of noodles and the earthiness of all the rest will never be forgotten! Of course, neither will sipping the bold and beautiful 1998 Pavie-Macquin as we surveyed the land that produced it!

Ancient St. Emilion, France
Ancient St. Emilion, France

We took in the city itself the next day. Even at a strolling pace, it did not take us long to see the major points of interest and most of the shops. We had lunch al fresco at a pizzeria, eating at a tiny table set against an old stone wall, and then sampled homemade gelato as we finished our walk about. We did not tour the outlying vineyards during our stay, partly by choice after the myriad of tours in Pessac-Leognan and the Medoc, and partly by circumstance. The French do holiday in the summer, after all, and not everything is open just to suit a visitor’s convenience.

St. Emilion is a tiny place, an old place, with nooks and crannies to explore, but not so many that you are left overwhelmed at the end of the day. And there is something truly restful about this old city at night, when the day tourists are gone, and a quietness settles over those left amid the stone walls.

Overall Experience
We give the Hostellerie de Plaisance 5 Stars- Outstanding!

Hostellerie de Plaisance is located in St.Emilion in the Bordeaux region of France. For hotel reservations call 33 (0)5 57 55 07 55, or visit www.hostellerie-plaisance.com/

Filed Under: Hotel Reviews Tagged With: Bordeaux, Europe, France, Hotel Reviews, Relais and Chateaux, St. Emilion, St. Emilion Hotel Reviews

Chateau Lynch Bages 1990

May 11, 2003 By colin Leave a Comment

Sitting under some of Picasso’s original artwork at the Picasso restaurant in the Bellagio Hotel, Las Vegas, it was hard not to feel generally in awe. However, we are quite sure that even in humbler surroundings, we would remain impressed by Chateau Lynch Bages 1990. This Bordeaux wine from the Pauillac region was sophisticated and refined, yet strikingly rich and full in taste.The colour was impressively deep, and even the nose was itself quite “delicious”! Wine Spectator gives this abundantly deserving wine an excellent score of 95. Parker,  rates this wine an impressive 94. For those who love Bordeaux, this is a gorgeous choice.



Filed Under: Wine Reviews Tagged With: 1990, Bordeaux, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chateau Lynch Bages, France, Merlot, Pauillac

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