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Three Days in Seattle: Fun Times, Fine Dining. Sleeplessness Not Required.

June 3, 2016 By karin Leave a Comment

You may not be able to see an entire city in three days, but you can go a long way in experiencing the highlights. We found a recent trip to Seattle cut short by circumstance, but were able to pack in a surprising amount of activity without feeling rushed or overwhelmed. Of course, to get the most of out of a quick stop, it helps to stay in a comfortable, convenient, location from which most things everything are walkable – so let’s start there.

Day 1 – Arrival time approximately 3:00 pm

We chose the The Alexis, a Kimpton hotel, based on an excellent experience at another Kimpton hotel in Portland. Service here is friendly and attentive, and the décor and layout have an elegant and welcome ‘un-chained’ feeling. Our room was an executive suite, a generous space with separate king bedroom and a great view of Elliott Bay.

kimpton-alexis-seattle-ballet-suite

kimpton-alexis-seattle-living-room



kimpton-alexis-seattle-bedroom

Each morning in the lobby, Starbucks coffee (of course) is offered free, hot and fresh – bookended by local wines and hot snacks served daily at 5pm. A gem at this particular location is the Bookstore Bar and Café.  A great spot for happy hour drinks, charcuterie, cheese plates, and other assorted bites or of course, a full meal. After a walk to acquaint ourselves with the neighbourhood, we enjoyed a lovely happy hour snack including a beautiful draft beer and lovely glass of Helena Chardonnay, and vacation was on.

kimpton-alexis-bookstore-bar

We took our time, unwinding a bit before a later dinner, then headed the short block over over to Heartwood Provisions (make reservations – it was packed). Very recently opened, this fun, energetic restaurant with a hopping bar and open kitchen concept had great food and service. At the ‘heart’ of their concept is a cocktail pairings list matching innovative 2oz. cocktails with fresh, creative dishes. (Do it!)

We began with the restaurant’s famous wagyu beef jerky ‘snack’ known as The Original Provision. It was a surprisingly generous serving for a starter, and more flavourful than spicy – very nice. We were then urged to share a couple of starters with the cocktail pairings, then move on to wine and a main course.  Sharing starters worked well – we had a beet salad with honey chevre and Asian-inspired chermoula, and then yellowtail (spectacularly fresh!) with avocado, lemon pepper vinaigrette, olives and micro greens. The cocktail pairings were fun, but better advice may have been to each order one of the mini creations (it was strange to share the dish, but have only one cocktail).

heartwoo-Original-Provision

The beet salad ‘came with’ a concoction of tequila, bitters, vermouth, honey and lime while the yellowtail paired with a refreshing mixture of gin, lemon, celery bitters and sparkling wine. For our main courses, we had the halibut with morels, pickled fiddleheads and asparagus and the duck confit with turnip and a tomato vinaigrette. Overall, we felt that the main courses were good (the duck much more interesting than the halibut), but that were we to do it again, we’d have added another vegetable or raw starter rather than an entrée. The starters were so intriguing and appealingly presented (the Lacinato Kale Salad looked gorgeous!) and the cocktails so unique, this is the way to go…And remember to double up on the cocktails (one each per dish) to max the fun.

All in all a relaxing afternoon and evening, with a sense of Seattle just by staying in a great location. And that was Day 1.

Day 2 – Game Day and Seafood Feast

After a restful night at the Alexis, it was game day in Seattle with the Mariners playing the Angels at 2pm. After a restful morning that included rich, beautiful lattes from the famed Storyville Coffee Company just steps from the lobby, we walked the pleasant, 20-ish minute walk to Safeco Field in the company of jolly Mariners fans.We left early to arrive at 11:30 so that we could get the full benefit of our all-inclusive Diamond Club tickets – which was awesome. We enjoyed a full brunch, one of the best brunch spreads we’ve ever seen – ever –  with carving stations, beautiful fruit platters, sumptuous pastries, and an open bar featuring wine, mixed drinks, and numerous beers on tap. After that, we were able to come and go from phenomenal just-behind-homeplate seats to a self-serve smorg of hot and cold snacks (think pizza, sausages, baked pretzels), drinks, boxed candy, ice cream and popcorn and an in-seat menu completed the all-you-can-eat-and-you-don’t-have-to-move decadence. (And, oh yes, there was a game and it was fun.)

safeco-field-mariners

Despite practically eating our weight in baseball fare, after waddling back to the hotel and resting up a bit, we managed a later dinner at Aqua by El Gaucho. It was the only ‘slightly too far to walk’ destination of our stay, but really a mere 5-10 minute Uber ride away (and a free restaurant shuttle back to our hotel).

A spacious restaurant right on the water, Aqua’s views would be amazing on a clear day. The overcast, drizzly evening we got was still cozy – no complaints! The food and drink here was terrific and the overall feeling was friendly and a bit (wonderfully) old school  thanks to the live piano music (which included a playlist of dreamy Doors, Beatles and other 60’s tunes). We started with a dozen fresh-shucked oysters, from ultra-briny to incredibly meaty which went very well with an ‘old school’ martini, and refreshing pear-infused beverage (Pear, Vodka and prosecco). Our main courses were from the sea, of course  – Stuffed prawns (Dungeness crab, shrimp, and a flavourful pepper sauce), and in-season halibut with a gorgeous citrus sauce and a blood orange, fennel and arugula salad. The ‘turf’ entrees looked great, too but we had headed toward the coast for fish. Paired with a beautiful 2013 Aubert Chardonnay, our Aqua experience was top notch.

Aqua by El Gaucho
Aqua by El Gaucho

Shuttle back to the hotel happy as clams, that was Day 2.

Day 3 – The Sights

The following morning was when we learned that we’d have to head home early, so we decided it was time to kick our Seattle trip into high gear. Frankly, we’d seen and done quite a bit so far just by being conveniently located and walking around – but we decided to get serious on that second full day compressing a few leisurely days of sightseeing into one afternoon.

We still took it slow in the morning, but headed for Pike Place Market in the late morning hours. Yes, we saw the ‘fish guys’ and their fresh caught offerings – amazing. We strolled among the myriad shops and eating spots in this friendly, fairly touristy area (although it had a much more ‘local’ feeling than the wharf in San Francisco). Our main destination at the market was Pike Place Chowder for lunch, to sample the New England chowder that’s nabbed major awards away from East Coast competitors. Even though we arrived on the early side of lunch there was a line up, but it was very well managed, moved quickly, and there was ample seating. The chowder didn’t disappoint – it was creamy, hearty, very meaty and piping hot. What is it about oyster crackers that just works? A medium bowl paired with a sourdough roll made a perfectly satisfying lunch. All right – off to the Seattle Aquarium!

Seattle Aquarium
Seattle Aquarium

Making our way there on foot took a bit of figurin’. Major highways skirt along the waterfront (lots of construction, too as the whole area gets re-imagined), so while you can see the water, it wasn’t crystal clear how to reach it. But by weaving our way in the general direction, we found staircases and crosswalks  and consequently saw more of Seattle – and finally we arrived at the aquarium. It’s a smallish place but well done. There are a number of impressive indoor exhibits, funneling you toward the heart of the facility – a semi-outdoor sea and river otter area (we were lucky to see meal time). You don’t need a whole afternoon to appreciate the aquarium, but it’s a nice way to spend an hour and a bit – and left us time for…

…The Great Wheel. I don’t know how the locals feel about it. But we thought The Great Wheel was pretty cool. Built in 2012, this is a massive, 175 foot high Ferris Wheel with enclosed compartments. It offered some neat views of the skyline (including our only glimpse of the Space Needle). And ascending and descending over the water was a prettyy wild feeling– it felt almost like we were going to plunge into Elliott Bay (hint  –  possible underwater attraction tie-in to the nearby Aquarium? Maybe not…). They promise three revolutions and we got 4, so – score.

View from the Seattle Great Wheel
View from the Seattle Great Wheel

We made our way back to the Alexis for ‘wine o’clock’ at 5pm, passing through such interesting Seattle spaces as the Harbour Steps, an attractive stone-stepped courtyard space surrounded by apartments, shops and dining. After a bit of a rest, it was time to go all out on what was to be our last night there. So what better venue than an old school steakhouse? And our meal was so epic, though it also took place on Day 3, it deserves it’s own section…

Day 3 – The Steak

A few (steep) blocks from the Alexis is the Metropolitan Grill. It is a wood-paneled, old world, old fashioned club paradise with photos featuring celeb guests greeting you at the door (here’s looking at you, Don Rickles). Can you tell we had a great time?

Metropolitan Grill Seattle
Metropolitan Grill Seattle

We started by selecting a few drinks from the Manhattan section of the cocktail list. First up was the ‘Met Manhattan’, with the unusual addition of absinthe. We also tried the 820 Manhattan, featuring an interesting splash of apricot brandy, and a sweet but refreshing mango margherita.

metropolitan-grill-seattle-manhattan

Then came the oysters – an incredible selection of raw oysters on the half shell – fresh, meaty, delectable with an ingenious, refreshing frozen champagne mignonette ( I could have eaten this with a spoon – so yum). The oysters at Aqua were really good, but these were out of this world. We also enjoyed the Metropolitan Prawn Martini – huge prawns with  just the right bite served with a bright, zesty cocktail sauce – all presented in a martini glass, of course.

metropolitan-grill-seattle-prawns-oysters

We were now primed for the main steak event. We were eager to try the Japanese Hokkaido Snow Beef, so called due to the delicate texture apparently comparable to a snowflake. With only two heads harvested every month according to the menu description, this sounded incredible. Unfortunately – they were out! However, we ‘settled’ for filet of Ohmi Wagyu beef which did in fact melt in the mouth, and the prime, dry aged boneless ribeye. Grilled over charcoal, the flavor was uber-beefy, and out of this world. We paired the meal with massive baked potatoes topped with a rich cheese sauce and sour cream, cedar plank grilled mushrooms, and grilled asparagus. To accompany this feast, we had a superb wine bursting with deep, rich flavor – the absolutely perfect Dominus 2012.

dominus-2012-napa-valley

For the finale or the encore or whatever you’d like to call it,  we shared a (huge) dessert of bananas foster prepared tableside, and 100 Years of Tawny port –  a flight of 10, 20, 30, and 40 year tawny ports. The pours were extremely generous for a tasting experience, but somehow we managed. There was something particularly satisfying about the 20 year.  A unique and fun end to a great evening!

100 years of Port...
100 years of Port…

Day 4 – Departure

With a flight in mid-afternoon, we took advantage of having the morning to stroll a bit more. It happened to be the only sunny day of the trip, which was a nice way to remember the city. We stopped off for another round of lattes at Storyville Coffee, where they expertly roast their own beans, and a couple of bags of their “Prologue” beans as a tasty souvenir. We made our way to the Pacific Place mall more for the stroll than anything, checking out some of the shopping along the way. Then it was back to the Alexis for a delectable late brunch/early lunch including bacon and eggs, and a smoked salmon salad with crispy potatoes and anchovy caper dressing (really, really good!).

Sigh – that was it for Seattle, but looking back at our time, we saw and did quite a bit, eating our way through most of it, and having a great time. We’d go back for more oysters, more cocktail pairings, to try that ‘snow beef’, and another stay at the Alexis, anytime!

Filed Under: Destinations, Hotel Reviews Tagged With: Aqua by El Gaucho, best clam chowder, Heartwood Provisions, Kimpton hotels, Pike Place, Seattle, Seattle Aquarium, The Alexis Seattle, The Metropolitan Grill Seattle

Top Reasons to Head to a Ski Town in Autumn

December 21, 2015 By karin Leave a Comment

Lake Louise is a stunning alpine lake in the Canadian Rockies, a turquoise jewel nestled at the base of glacier-packed mountains. Picturesque? Always. Tranquil and soul-restoring? Well – that depends. After all, Lake Louise is located in a national park that welcomes several million visitors every year. In summer, long lines of cars, RV’s, and massive caravans of tour buses arrive daily at the lake’s shores for photo ops.  Winter brings the skiers in droves to the region’s slopes (and of course, those famous turquoise waters will be hidden below ice and snow.)

Lake Louise October 2015

Having been to Lake Louise at various times of the year, we’ve come to the conclusion that early autumn may just be the most brilliant time to visit – and the diminished crowds aren’t the only perk. Here are our best reasons to give an ‘off-season’ trip to Lake Louise a try:

Avoid Those Mountain Traffic Jams

Lake Louise at peak tourism times in the summer is known to have stand-still, bumper-to-bumper traffic winding down from the lake all the way to the town site about 4 km below. Why spend your precious vacation time stuffed into your car? These extreme traffic jams may not be daily occurrences, but summer time (even on the least busy day) ensures bustling crowds at the lake shore as day-trippers congregate for their alpine photo-ops.



In early October, however, a quiet, easy-going stroll minus the urge to sharpen your elbows is more than possible. The same can be said for nearby Moraine Lake, accessible off the main road to Lake Louise. Packed with crowds in the summer, the majestic, peak-encircled lake whose image once graced the Canadian twenty-dollar bill can be enjoyed in relative serenity.

Moraine Lake October 2015

Summer Services Are Still Available

The summer tourism season officially ends immediately after Canadian Thanksgiving Monday (around mid-October – this year, Monday October 12).  After that, many operations in the area come to a virtual standstill; for instance The Post Hotel where we spent our week shuts down completely for several weeks in preparation for the ski season. Until then, however, you can enjoy the activities,  services, and experience everybody seeks out in summer – but without the ‘everybody’.

We were thrilled to learn that the Lake Agnes Tea House would be open during our stay. Taking advantage of the glorious near-summer-like weather on the first full day of our trip, we drove up to the lake then hiked for an hour or so up the mountain trail to the rustic tea house for refreshment. We enjoyed a piping hot pot of Early Grey (the menu boasts over 100 tea varieties), munched on yummy sandwiches made with fresh-baked bread, and ended with homemade chocolate chip cookies. Best of all, we easily secured a table on the tea house’s deck overlooking the lovely Lake Agnes – without feeling in the least bit crowded or rushed.

Big Beehive October 2015

The Weather Works in Your Favour – No Matter What It Decides to Do

On a summer trip to the mountains, you’re probably hoping for a day or two when you can strip off that fleece layer and enjoy a mountain picnic in your shirtsleeves. In winter, of course, it’s all about that perfect dusting (or dump) of snow. But mountain weather is notoriously variable, so you can almost count on having to change your plans.

Autumn is different. We all know it to be a season of transition, so right away it’s easier to embrace unpredictability. You may be blessed with a few summer-like days (as we were), and if so – great! Take a longer hike, rent a canoe from the still-open boathouse and paddle the Lake, take a meandering drive headed for Banff on the scenic Bow Valley Parkway, or maybe go on that picnic wearing shirtsleeves.

Paddling on Lake Louise October 2015

On the other hand, it could be snowy or cold or both. You know you’re not going skiing, but you can enjoy the chalet-atmosphere of many of the accommodations. On a few chilly afternoons at The Post, we took full advantage snuggling up by the wood-burning fireplace in our room. When we felt more social, we sat on cozy sofas  and overstuffed chairs in the hotel’s front lobby for the hotel’s daily complimentary tea and coffee services (for guests only). There was also the option of having a beverage in the Sir Norman lounge by its large stone fireplace.

And if you get the timing right, whether the temperatures are warm or cold, autumn in the Lake Louise area might offer you something you will never see in July or February – mountainsides painted yellow and gold as larches and aspens turn colour. Contrasting with the dark evergreens, cool slate of the mountain rock, the brief glimpse of golden tones is truly breathtaking.

The Elegant Comfort of the Post Hotel Menu – Even Better When Cooler Temps Rule

Dining is always a first-class experience at The Post. But the menu is also hearty and generous. Rich, sumptuous options like Quebec Foie Gras, Veal Stroganoff, Lobster Risotto, and five-course tasting menus can be enjoyed year-round, but are more suited to bracing temps. Begin with a drink in the Sir Norman lounge by a warm, crackling fire, and the rest of the evening is sure to fall in place.

Any description of the dining at the Post would be incomplete without a mention of its incredible wine cellar. One of the most extensive in Canada and winner of a prestigious ‘Grand Award’ from Wine Spectator, any wine-lover passing through Alberta must make a stop at The Post. We sipped such rarities as the Hermitage (Jean-Louis Chave) 2009, the Leonetti 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon, and even a Australian ‘Sticky’ Tokay. We appreciated long conversations with the restaurant’s knowledgeable sommelier as well as a private tour of the cellar’s remarkable collection.

Post Hotel Thanksgiving 2015

Fondue (Somehow) Tastes Better…

Fondue Stubli Post Hotel Cheese FondueThe Swiss mountaineering influence is everywhere in the Lake Louise region, from the fascinating historic photos lining the Post Hotel’s walls to the heritage signage around Lake Louise itself. But the tastiest tribute by far is the traditional cheese fondue.

We’ve spent many holidays at Lake Louise, and have always planned on at least one dinner at the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise’s Walliser Stube. It’s impressive woodwork interior and even more stunning views of Lake Louise can’t be beat, but this year we discovered that it’s food can be. The Fondue Stubli has recently opened at the Post Hotel in the intimate setting of the former cigar lounge. Fondues are not all alike, and the meal we were able to enjoy prepared by executive chef Hans Sauter is one that eclipses our fondest Chateau experiences. Everything from the portions (huge, generous), to the unforgettable flavour and textures (rich, sharp, smooth), access to the Post’s seemingly-endless wine list, to the service (impeccable and friendly) stood head and shoulders over the Walliser Stube.

I should note that in addition to the unforgettable food and presentation, we had the place entirely to ourselves. Now this surely wouldn’t happen at the height of summer or in the depths of the winter ski season, would it?

Disadvantages?

If you want to ski, then yes – don’t go to Lake Louise in early October. But if you want to hike, paddle, picnic, drive, eat, relax  – basically do all the things you’d do anyway in summer but without the crowds, book your 2016 trip now.

 

 

Filed Under: Destinations Tagged With: Bow Valley Parkway, cheese fondue, Lake Agnes Tea House, Lake Louise, off season Lake Louise, Rocky Mountain scenery, The Post Hotel

Las Vegas, Nevada

January 16, 2009 By karin Leave a Comment

Las Vegas (articleimg)Las Vegas is an adult playground on a gargantuan scale. In every possible way, it is larger than life. Hotel towers seem to match the height of the mountains that surround the city. Lights and signs blaze in a dizzying array all along “the Strip”. Casinos the size of football fields are surely the eighth wonder of the world, not to mention the custom-built entertainment theatres, malls with stores in the hundreds, and innumerable eating establishments. Paris may be the city of lights, and New York the city that never sleeps. But Las Vegas is surely both.

Though Las Vegas may be synonymous with cheap flights, cheap rates, and cheap buffets (and other things that we shall allow to go unmentioned), it has also become an unparalleled center of world-class accommodations, dining, and entertainment. If you haven’t been to Vegas for a while, just check out any of the films in the “Ocean’s” franchise for a taste of the heights of luxury Vegas can offer. And be aware that even since the making of the latest of these films, the most decadent of the hotels depicted has more than likely been eclipsed by another, even grander one by now.



For incredible accommodation possibilities, consider the Signature at the MGM Grand, a series of luxury condominium towers off but not far from the strip. The Wynn and its newest sister, the Encore, are gorgeous inside and out, and promise a five star experience. While not “cheap” in the absolute sense, the value for your dollar is unheard of almost anywhere else in the world. This is an indulgence that even the more reluctant indulgence seeker can enjoy.

As for food and wine (always at the heart of our quest) you will be beyond satisfied by the options available to you in Las Vegas. Let your sense tingle and your mouth water as you merely contemplate the menus offered at Alex (Wynn), Picasso (Bellagio), Joel Robuchon (MGM Grand), Nobhill (MGM Grand) and Daniel Boulud (Wynn).

Vegas has and always will be what you make of it. However, the possibility to make it an experience of luxury to such a great extent is more real than ever before.

Filed Under: Destinations Tagged With: destination, Las Vegas, Nevada, travel guide, USA, vacation planner

Mount Rushmore, South Dakota

January 11, 2009 By karin Leave a Comment

Mount Rushmore National Memorial is a breathtaking mountain monument paying tribute to great presidents in American history and the democratic ideals they represent.

The much-larger-than-life monument, designed by sculptor Gutzon Borglum, was blasted into existence by about 400 workers beginning in 1927 through 1941. Located in the stunning Black Hills of South Dakota, Mount Rushmore is an easy half hour drive from Rapid City. A visit to the memorial is an ideal day trip that brings nature, history and patriotism together.

Arriving at the memorial, you will be welcomed by the impressive Avenue of Flags, featuring rows of state and territorial flags. The Avenue leads to the Grandview Terrace, a large platform that offers a straight-on view of the mountain. If you wish, there is also an easy, half-mile tree-lined walking trail that takes you remarkably close to the mountain. You will enjoy an intimate look at the faces in the mountain as you progress along the trail. Interesting facts about each of the presidents, Washington, Jefferson, Roosevelt and Lincoln, are also posted along the way. Evenings in May-September feature a nightly Sculpture Lighting Ceremony at 9pm in the amphitheatre at the mountain base.



The memorial also has a full visitor center complete with gift shop, museum, carver’s studio, concessions and restroom facilities.

Whether you are an American or not, you will certainly be moved by Mount Rushmore’s grandeur and the beauty of the Black Hills.

A parking fee of $10 will be collected prior to entering the park. The ticket you receives serves as an annual pass that can be used throughout the calendar year. It is also useful if you plan to visit the site during the day, and then wish to come back later that day or on another day to view the Evening Sculpture Lighting Ceremony. For more information about Mount Rushmore National Memorial, please visit http://www.nps.gov/moru/

Filed Under: Destinations Tagged With: Black Hills, historial sites, monuments, Mount Rushmore, moutains, Rapid City, road trip, South Dakota

Lake Louise, Alberta

January 11, 2009 By karin Leave a Comment

Lake Louise November 2008Lake Louise is a majestic alpine lake nestled at the foot of Victoria glacier. The jewel-like color of the lake makes it truly a wonder of nature, and a worthwhile stop on any trip to the Canadian Rockies.

There are many ways to enjoy this incredible site, day-tripping being a popular option for those staying in Banff, Canmore, or nearby campsites. Simply strolling around the paved area in front of Lake Louise to take in the view is an immensely enjoyable experience. You can also rent a canoe in the summer and take a casual paddle around the blue-green water. If you want a more vigorous walk or a different perspective of the area, you can choose from a number of hiking paths with trailheads beginning at the lake. Take an easy walk down the paved path at the lake’s edge, or hike one of the more challenging sawback trails that take you into the forest, some passing smaller alpine lakes along the way. Two tea houses, undetectable from the lakefront, are nestled in the mountains that border the lake. Refreshment paired with spectacular bird’s-eye view of Lake Louise is certainly worth the climb.

Speaking of refreshment, another way to spend a most pleasant afternoon is to take afternoon tea in the famed Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise’s Lakeview Lounge. The lounge overlooks the lake and provides an amazing view of Victoria Glacier. First-class elegance and an unparalled view will create lifelong memories.



Day trips are just the beginning of what you can do at Lake Louise. You can certainly make Lake Louise your Rocky Mountain vacation base. World class accommodations, fine dining, and elegant spa services are available at the Chateau and the nearby Post Hotel (located in the town of Lake Louise, not a five minute drive from the lake itself). Other hotels and accommodations are also available nearby. Lake Louise is a popular ski destination in the winter months. And there are nearby alpine lakes to explore, such as Moraine Lake.

Whether Lake Louise is your base or a must-do along your Rocky Mountain path, getting there can be just as breathtaking as visiting the lake itself. If you are driving from Banff, you might consider taking the Bow Valley Parkway, which runs parallel to the Trans Canada Highway. This quieter, meandering highway follows the Bow River, and offers more opportunities for scenic views, wildlife spotting, and mountain hikes.

Despite the crowds that you may find on a day trip to Lake Louise, the beauty of the location seems to inspire calm and wonder in everyone. Though you may be surrounded by others, you will also find a sense of peace and solitude, which is certainly worth the trip.

Filed Under: Destinations Tagged With: AB, Alberta, Canada, Lake Louise, mountains, nature, skiing, wilderness

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