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Small Barrels Magazine

Reviews of Fine Wines, Luxury Hotels and the Best Restaurants on Earth

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Hostellerie de Plaisance (St. Emilion, France)

August 11, 2004 By karin Leave a Comment

Hostellerie de PlaisancePerhaps the most ironic thing about our journey to the medieval hilltop town of St. Emilion in our tour of Bordeaux, was our passing a McDonald’s along the way. I can imagine nothing more dramatic with which to juxtapose the ancient, walled city where cars are largely not permitted than the famed golden arches. We may as well have stepped into a time machine.

Finding St.Emilion seemed simpler than finding other places in Bordeaux. I suppose that at this point in our journey we’d finally become more accustomed to the maps, roads and traffic signs that at first had seemed indecipherable. As we neared St. Emilion, the countryside transformed from the rather flat expanses of Pessac-Leognan and Pauillac to a more picturesque, hilly landscape. The drive offered views with a lovely natural quality, and fewer palatial chateaux hovering near the road.

St. Emilion
St. Emilion

Finally, the city of St. Emilion emerged from the landscape as though out of time itself. Fortified with ancient stone walls, St. Emilion was originally built in the 12th century and then rebuilt in later centuries to its present appearance. The steep, cobbled roads weave round, up, and through in a fashion clearly not intended for automobiles. Indeed, traffic is limited to a unidirectional road, and parking, other than in the tourist area at the very top of the city, is nonexistent.



As one may imagine, the layout of this quaint place made it a challenge to find and park at our hotel, Hostellerie de Plaisance (of the Relais and Chateaux chain). Several false starts forced us right through the city; we then had to find the entrance once again due to the one-way road. Finally, we identified our hotel – partly due to the photo that we had printed from the hotel website, partly due to the fact that there was no other place to park our car than right near the hotel, and mostly due to luck.

The Pavie Suite
The Pavie Suite

The Hostellerie de Plaisance is located at the top of St. Emilion, which is also its heart. It is adjacent to a grand, carved stone cathedral that inspires awe in its visitors. The inn, once a monastery, is owned and operated (since 2001) by Madame and Monsieur Perse, also the owners of the renowned Chateau Pavie (Premier Grand Cru Classe), and of Chateau Monbousquet, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru. The interior is beautifully refurbished, offering elegance and modern amenities.

Our room, “Pavie,” was beautifully appointed with rich draperies and fabrics and elegant furniture. The bathroom was very spacious (note to North Americans – the WC is located in a separate room from the bath tub, shower, and sink). But it was the view that was completely breathtaking.

Modern Luxury in St. Emilion
Modern Luxury in St. Emilion

From our room, perched at the very top of this ancient, intriguing city, we could peer over the red-brown shingled roof tops of the snugly-situated buildings and the steeply sloping cobblestone streets. Open-air restaurants with canopied tables spread below us along with a thriving throng of visitors making their way from shop to shop, particularly in the Place du Marche. We could see beyond the city walls as well – and were delighted by the hilly, green vineyards that went on as far as the eye could see.

We dined two nights at the hotel’s restaurant and ate under the stars. We enjoyed a similar view of the city below as we ate the exquisite offerings of Chef Philippe Etchebest. Of particular note was an incredible, almost indescribable entree – a lasagne with foie gras, forest mushrooms, black truffles, and an amazing creamy sauce. The tender layers of noodles and the earthiness of all the rest will never be forgotten! Of course, neither will sipping the bold and beautiful 1998 Pavie-Macquin as we surveyed the land that produced it!

Ancient St. Emilion, France
Ancient St. Emilion, France

We took in the city itself the next day. Even at a strolling pace, it did not take us long to see the major points of interest and most of the shops. We had lunch al fresco at a pizzeria, eating at a tiny table set against an old stone wall, and then sampled homemade gelato as we finished our walk about. We did not tour the outlying vineyards during our stay, partly by choice after the myriad of tours in Pessac-Leognan and the Medoc, and partly by circumstance. The French do holiday in the summer, after all, and not everything is open just to suit a visitor’s convenience.

St. Emilion is a tiny place, an old place, with nooks and crannies to explore, but not so many that you are left overwhelmed at the end of the day. And there is something truly restful about this old city at night, when the day tourists are gone, and a quietness settles over those left amid the stone walls.

Overall Experience
We give the Hostellerie de Plaisance 5 Stars- Outstanding!

Hostellerie de Plaisance is located in St.Emilion in the Bordeaux region of France. For hotel reservations call 33 (0)5 57 55 07 55, or visit www.hostellerie-plaisance.com/

Filed Under: Hotel Reviews Tagged With: Bordeaux, Europe, France, Hotel Reviews, Relais and Chateaux, St. Emilion, St. Emilion Hotel Reviews

Halekulani (Honolulu, HI)

April 5, 2004 By karin Leave a Comment

Halekulani Hotel PoolHalekulani, the “House Befitting Heaven,” is aptly named. Located in Waikiki, the hotel overlooks majestic palms, a private strip of sandy beach, and then beyond into the endless stretch of the blue Pacific. Serenity washes over you at every turn at the recurring sight of native Hawaiin flowers and plants, and in the the welcoming rooms decorated in soothing, muted cream tones. The swaying sound of traditional Hawaiin music floats through the evening air from the lanai of House Without A Key, the hotel’s popular outdoor lounge. Comfort and serenity truly await in this corner of Hawaiin paradise.

Situated directly oceanside, Halekulani looks out onto Gray’s Beach, part of the greater Waikiki beach, traditionally associated with healing and renewal. This location says a lot about the feelings of well being this resort successfully inspires in its guests. Halekulani is close enough to the bustling shops and restaurants of downtown Honolulu – a short walk will get you in range of almost any store or eatery imaginable. Yet with its palm-lined ocean view, serene open air courtyards, and abundance of lush Hawaiin flora, the hotel transports you to a place of peace and calm.

View of Diamond Head from Halekulani Hotel
View of Diamond Head from Halekulani Hotel

The lobby itself is remarkable. Without doors or windows, the entrance welcomes you in along with the perpetually perfect Hawaiian air. An enormous, stunning floral centerpiece is the first thing that comes into view, and then the vast open grassy courtyard just beyond. A stroll toward the courtyard reveals several tranquil sitting areas, with comfortable chairs and love seats. The colors of the furnishings and décor throughout the hotel are muted and natural, allowing the vibrancy of the fragrant blooms and lush greenery to take center stage. Stunning stone fountains do double duty in the front seating area by delivering a sense of calm and effectively masking the sounds of traffic which, unbelievably, are quite present just beyond them.



Heading toward the inviting ocean and blue sky, past a row of beautiful shops (artwork, jewelry, resort clothing and sundries) you’ll find Halekulani’s restaurants and the gorgeous pool area. The pool itself is characterized by a stunning orchid pattern, made of over 1 million glass mosaic tiles, inlaid in the floor of its 46-by-82 foot dimensions. The lounge area is comfortable and spacious, with shade provided by enormous palm trees, should you desire. Towels and fresh, comfortable terry lounge chair covers are provided, and attendants circulate to take drink orders. And of course, the view of the ocean is beyond description.

Halekulani Hotel Room - Sitting Area
Halekulani Hotel Room – Sitting Area

A wonderful feature of Halekulani is the in-room check-in service. Rather than making our initial arrangements on our tired feet in the lobby, a reception staff member accompanied us to our room and check us in there, personally pointing out the room’s amenities and giving a brief but informative verbal orientation to the hotel. The only draw back to this service is that the room and the view is so incredible, it may be hard to keep your mind on checking in! Our room was quite spacious, and decorated in creamy muted tones, allowing the azur blue of the ocean and sky beyond the window to be the focal point (lof course, you should be aware that not all rooms have an ocean view). We had a balcony that allowed us to gaze over the tops of the high palm trees and to catch a bird’s eye view of the famous “Orchid” pool and the evening hula show at House Without a Key.

Our bathroom was fairly large with a soaker tub and separate shower. It was regularly restocked with good-quality amenities. We appreciated various small but memorable touches throughout our stay, including the bowl of fresh Hawaiian fruit (guava, papaya, banana) awaiting us on our arrival, consistently prompt and thorough housekeeping service, and the presence of little gifts on our pillow left for us at turn down. The excellent service at Halekulani is definitely worthy of further note. Everyone was genuinely friendly, extremely accommodating, and seemed truly concerned that our stay was carefree. We became especially fond of the staff who parked and retrieved our car, each day offering directions and a willingness to help us with any question or concern.

King Bed and Comfortable Linens
King Bed and Comfortable Linens

Halekulani boasts several dining options within the hotel itself. The House Without a Key is a gorgeous open air lounge area, great for drinks and snacks in the evening, and also open in the mornings for a buffet breakfast. Even locals are drawn to the place, especially for Mai Tais and appetizers at sunset, to watch the sun sink into the ocean beyond the stage to the tune of Hawaiian hula music and mesmerizing hula dancing. This place quickly became a favorite of ours. We sipped many an orchid-bedecked Mai Tai, and tried tasty appetizers such as coconut shrimp, spring rolls and the complimentary “Maui Chips”.

The aptly named Orchids (several varieties of this graceful flower grow throughout the restaurant) restaurant is also open to the air and the ocean. Breakfast is served here (the sweetest pineapple you’ll ever taste!), and a tantalizing dinner menu is also offered (reservations are recommended). Finally, La Mer, Halekulani’s premiere restaurant offers elegant fare and an award-winning wine list. For lighter snacks, drinks or afternoon tea, you may also visit Lewer’s Lounge and the Veranda area. This location also features musical entertainment on certain evenings.

As the Halekulani is located in the heart of Waikiki, you’re in walking distance to huge public beaches and lots of shopping. Nearby stores are sure to satisfy every taste and price point, with the curious mix of swanky shops like Coach in Waikiki’s “Luxury Row” alongside ubiquitous souvenir and sundries stores. You will not go hungry either – an impressive array of restaurants lines the streets near Halekulani. A particular favorite seems to be The Cheesecake Factory. You’ll recognize it by the throngs of people outside its doors holding those restaurant pager gadgets willing to wait sometimes over an hour and a half for dinner!

Overlooking Waikiki Beach in Oahu
Overlooking Waikiki Beach in Oahu

A short distance away are other worthwhile attractions. The lush Honolulu Zoo is practically down the street from the hotel, and is a pleasant way to spend an hour or two. Not too far away is Diamond Head, perhaps the most famous volcano crater in the world. Diamond Head can be seen from Halekulani’s pool area and the open-air areas of Orchids and House Without A Key restaurants. Be warned that if you are going to climb Diamond Head, it is a steep hike – be sure to wear proper foot gear and bring plenty of water. Despite what you may hear about stairs and railings, this is a long, hot walk. The view is beautiful, but you will work for it.

Halekulani staff will be happy to arrange transportation for your touring needs. We recommend taking taxis to restaurants that are just out of driving range to save time navigating Honolulu’s often baffling maze of one-way streets, and to spare yourself the challenge of actually finding parking (you may want to consider this even if you have rented a car). A favorite dining discovery of ours was Alan Wong’s, and we’re convinced that the experience was enhacned by the fact that we didn’t have to locate it and negotiate parking by ourselves! Thanks to a cab ride, we arrived in time and sipped our wine without a care in the world!  However, in general, we would certainly recommend renting a car so that you can get out there and experience Oahu. We drove almost the entire perimeter of this beautiful and dynamic island, taking in the phenomenal surfing beaches like Waimea, Makaha, and bohemian surfing towns (you must go to Haleiwa on the North Shore). You can’t go wrong taking in the sights at your own pace, stopping where and when you want to and being open to discovery and adventure.

It’s hard to say too much about the  first-class treatment and slice of paradise we experienced at Halekulani. We would highly recommend it to the traveller looking for the best in rest, relaxation, and luxury.

Overall Experience
We give Halekulani 5 Stars- Outstanding!

Halekulani is located at 2199 Kalia Road, on Waikiki Beach, Honolulu, HI. For hotel reservations, call toll free 800-367-2343. For more information, call 808-923-2311, fax 808-926-8004 or visit www.halekulani.com.

Filed Under: Hotel Reviews Tagged With: Halekulani, Hawaii, Hotel Reviews, luxury hotels, Oahu, USA, Waikiki

Bellagio (Las Vegas, NV)

April 10, 2003 By karin Leave a Comment

It’s no longer your grandfather’s Las Vegas, and the Bellagio Hotel is proof. From the moment you step into the grand lobby, a canopy of glass flowers by Dale Chiluly soaring over your head, you’ve entered into elegance epitomized.

The Bellagio’s lobby’s surrounds you with fresh, natural light in the daytime – a welcome and unusual experience in Las Vegas casinos. Skylights and a massive indoor conservatory just beyond the lobby – a
destination in and of itself with ever-changing flower and plant displays invite the sun in like nowhere else on the strip. Even the casino itself has an inviting glow that you just won’t see anywhere else. Bellagio has clearly employed a new strategy – rather than creating a cavernous space that suggests you have nowhere to go, this casino offers an airy, open feel making you want stay.



Our accommodations were grand and impeccable. Our suite was tastefully appointed with fresh, contemporary colors, furnishings, and window coverings. We enjoyed the large, spacious living room area with plenty of seating and lounging room that made it easy to wile away the day reading and relaxing, despite the plethora of entertainment options of the city.

The bedroom was large and welcoming, and the king bed and linens supremely comfortable. The star feature may have been the remote controlled draperies that parted at the touch of a button to reveal massive windows looking over the strip – a stunning site in the evening. The master bathroom was huge, complete with a large Jacuzzi tub for soaking the day way. The privacy offered by a second bathroom off the living room is a welcome addition. Of course, each was stocked with luxury amenities anticipating all of your needs.

With a room like this, there really is an argument for doing nothing else but staying in and relaxing. It goes without saying that the service is impeccable, prompt, and discreet. Of course, outside the room (but still within the hotel) is a whole host of options. There is the casino of course, the spectacular waterworld of Cirque de Soleil’s “O”, an abundance of fine dining options such as Michael Mina’s Aqua and the culinary art of Julian Serrano at Picasso, and various clubs and nightspots to check out. Bellagio is also a destination for world-class shopping, offering names like Hermes, Chanel, and Armani.

This is the finest of Las Vegas luxury destinations. We highly recommend it. It is far more than a hotel, it is an immersion in elegance.

Overall Experience
We give Bellagio 5 Stars – Outstanding!

Bellagio is located at 3600 Las Vegas Blvd South, Las Vegas, NV 89109. For hotel reservations call 888.987.6667, or visit www.bellagio.com.

Filed Under: Hotel Reviews Tagged With: bellagio, bellagio hotel review, Bellagio Review, Las Vegas, Nevada, Small Barrels Magazine

Blackberry Farm (Walland, TN)

December 11, 2002 By karin Leave a Comment

Tucked away in the foothills of the Great Smoky Mountains in Tennessee is a world class resort known as Blackberry Farm. Quite deliberately, the proprietors have neglected to post a sign on the highway marking the turn off to this intimate resort destination. Privacy and tranquility are indeed the hallmarks of a stay at Blackberry Farm.

Blackberry Farm, reached by a meandering country road and charmingly enclosed by a white wooden fence, is in fact a majestic 4200 acre property bordering on the Great Smoky Mountain National Park. With these famous mountains as a backdrop, Blackberry Farm itself boasts gorgeous rolling hills, babbling streams, thick clusters of trees and wide meadows where horses graze. Accommodations and services are housed in elegant, country style buildings that blend perfectly into these idyllic Southern surroundings.



Upon arrival for our week-long, early December holiday, we drove up to the tree-bordered entrance road to Oak Cottage where we were promptly and warmly received under a porte-cochere. The impression given by the courteous staff upon welcome is that any and all needs will be met with attentiveness and pleasantness. We found this impression to hold true from the start to the finish of our stay. 

After checking in, we and our luggage were chauffeured in one of Blackberry Farm’s motorized carts to our lodgings. (Because of the size of the property, and the hilly terrain, these vehicles are a handy way to get from place to place. By phoning the reception desk at Oak Cottage, you can arrange to be picked up and delivered promptly to other locations on the property.) Luxurious rooms are available in the Main House, a stately, county manor style building, where the dining room is also found. There are more rooms in the neighboring Guest House, both just across the way from Oak Cottage. More private cottage suites are also available in Holly Glade, a secluded, treed space at the bottom of the hill descending from the Main House. Each cottage in the Holly Glade contains two separate units with their own private covered porch. A Holly Glade cottage suite is particularly impressive with its king sized canopied bed, spacious sitting area, large bathroom complete with roomy whirlpool tub, and a generous walk-in closet. Though quite large, the overall impression of the cottage suite is one of cozy luxury due to the rich, colorful fabrics of the furnishings and draperies, the homey antiques and, in no small measure, the wood burning fireplace. A generous woodpile is located just outside of your door should you wish to build a fire. (Of course, a staff member will gladly light the fire for you !) Even the small touches throughout the suite reflect the attention to detail characteristic of Blackberry Farm. The fridge and pantry are well-stocked with complimentary gourmet snack fare, and high-end Aveda beauty and bath products grace the bathroom.

Little could be better than sitting by a roaring fire on a pillowy soft sofa gazing out at the Smoky Mountains from the cottage’s picture window. However, should you manage to leave the comfort of your room, there is plenty to do at Blackberry Farm. You might explore the property by following the paved path, either by foot or by renting a motorized cart for a modest hourly fee. We decided on an initial driving tour, to get a sense of the magnitude of the property as well as spectacular vantage points for future strolls. As well, we noted the occasional hammock and pairs of adirondack chairs placed strategically for your repose during a pleasant walk of the grounds.

For those guests seeking more movement than rest, several unpaved hiking trails have trailheads leading off of the main paved road. Their level of difficulty is noted on the property map, and you might choose to take along your gourmet boxed lunch, provided each day, for refreshment.

Besides exploring Blackberry Farm by foot, a host of other activities are available. Horseback riding and fly fishing on the picturesque Hesse Creek can be done year round. (Fly fishing lessons are available, but should be booked prior to your arrival.) Tennis courts and a heated outdoor swimming pool are open, weather and season permitting.

If you have come to Blackberry Farm for relaxation, you will find it in its ultimate form at the Farmhouse Spa (an Aveda Concept Spa). Massages, manicures, pedicures, facials, makeup consultations and other treatments are offered with superior service in the most incredible surroundings. The converted farmhouse is outfitted with cozy couches, wood burning fireplaces in private treatment rooms, and huge windows looking out onto the mountains. And, of course, only scrumptious, all-natural Aveda products are used. (Again, it is wise to book spa treatments well ahead of your visit to avoid disappointment.)

At the center of any stay at Blackberry Farm is fabulous food. We took our meals in the welcoming, genteel Main House Dining Room. An incredible view of the valley can be enjoyed through the large window at breakfast, where freshly squeezed orange juice and hot buttermilk biscuits are also highlights. In the evening, we enjoyed a roaring fire in the massive stone fireplace, chasing away the chill of the cooler December days.  Sumptuous five-course dinners were served with impeccable presentation. Besides excellent beef, lamb and chicken dishes, the chef skillfully incorporates local recipes and ingredients such as grits, fresh trout and, of course, blackberries into the gourmet menu. Our knowledgeable sommelier breathed life into the impressive wine list, drawing from their 8,000 foot wine cellare, making excellent wine suggestions to highlight each of our exquisite meals.

Overall, Blackberry Farm is well worth visiting for those seeking serenity in their surroundings, luxurious amenities and excellent service. 

Overall Experience
We give Blackberry Farm 5 Stars – Outstanding!

For more information or to make reservations, visit www.blackberryfarm.com

Filed Under: Hotel Reviews Tagged With: 5 star, Blackberry Farm, fine dining, fine wines, hotel, luxury, resort, Smoky Mountains, spa, Tennessee, TN, USA

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