Hotel Reviews Archives - Small Barrels Magazine

Inn at St. Peters (St. Peters, PEI)

July 1, 2009 By karin Leave a Comment

Anne of Green Gables is Lucy Maud Montgomery’s most famous literary creation. But there’s another character in the Anne books that is arguably just as important as Anne–and that is the setting of Prince Edward Island itself. You can open up any of the stories of Anne Shirley and lose yourself in Montgomery’s masterful reflections of Canada’s fair island. Or you can go there yourself and experience it firsthand.

We fell in love with Prince Edward Island in the summer of 2007. On that trip, we based ourselves in Charlottetown and explored the central and eastern side of the island, discovering the charm of its red, sandy beaches, sleepy villages, and awesome ocean views. On one of our last daytrips, we discovered St. Peter’s Bay, a picturesque inlet and home to beaches, forest trails, and a sense of quiet solitude. We vowed to return here next time.

Two years later, we booked a stay at the Inn at St Peters, an intimate hotel on the St Peters Bay waterfront. A short drive from Charlottetown, the town of St Peters is a lovely, quiet and inviting place. The approach to the town is dominated by the bay itself, and a great, white church across the water, on the same side as the Inn. Head toward the church, turn left, and you are almost there.

Waterfront King Suite at The Inn at St. Peters (PEI, Canada) — Waterfront King Suite at The Inn at St. Peters

The Inn itself is the ideal place for a restful retreat. Innkeepers Karen and Garth have done a wonderful job creating an environment that is beautiful and welcoming. They extend warm hospitality and a “let us know what you need” atmosphere, yet your privacy is always respected. Reception takes place in the great building, which also houses the large, airy dining room. Accommodations are housed separately from the main building, and just a short stroll away. The grounds are immaculately kept, and gorgeous flowers bloom in neat, winding rows along pretty walking paths. (We were amazed at how green and n bloom everything was for our mid-June stay. The huge clusters of irises were especially breathtaking). The peaceful inlet, lush green grass, and elegant flowers invite calm and relaxation.

Our King Suite was also very pleasing. Spacious, and spotlessly clean, we enjoyed a comfortable sitting area, fireplace, TV and DVD player, as well as a deck overlooking the water. The Suite is a single room, so there is no private bedroom/lounging space. However, this did not affect our enjoyment as we spent our days outside enjoying hikes and scenic drives, and our evenings lingering over delicious cuisine at the Inn’s dining room.

The Beautiful Waterfront Property of The Inn at St. Peters

I suppose here’s the perfect time to mention the gourmet dining provided by Chefs John Haines and Tracy Wallace. It was certainly a highlight of our stay. Sumptuous first courses included offerings such as “Nova Style” House Smoked Salmon with Avocado Oil and St. Peters Bay Mussels (from but a few feet away!) steamed in White Wine, Butter and Rosemary Cream Sauce. Noteworthy mains included Lobster Ravioli in a Garlic Infused Cream Sauce, and Bacon Wrapped Filet Mignon with Aged Cheddar Croquette Potato, Shiitake Mushrooms, Caramelized Shallots and Balsamic Grilled Vegetables (landlubbers are not excluded here.) A fine wine list added to our enjoyment, and Karen, who was often present in the dining room, shared her knowledge and enthusiasm about wine with us.

We stayed at the Inn for five nights; a rejuvenating amount of time. Our particular vacation package included a nightly three-course dinner, as well as a full, hot breakfast. It was too much food, really, but far better than leaving you wanting. Other packages at the Inn include first-class golf, cycling day trips, and a “City and Sea” package where you share your holiday between the Inn at St Peters, and the attractive Shipwright Inn near Charlottetown’s harbour front. We opted for the dining package, and chose our recreational activities depending on our mood day to day.

Beautiful Views Overlooking St. Peters Bay

We found ourselves exploring the trails and parabolic dunes in nearby Greenwich park (also home to a spectacular interpretive center – literally just down the road from the Inn), driving along the eastern coastline of the island, stopping in quaint little nearby towns for steamed lobster lunches, and getting acquainted with the quiet, peaceful rhythm of this lovely part of Prince Edward Island. (We developed a particular fondness for Rick’s Fish and Chips, a small dining establishment about a five minute drive from the Inn, especially the restaurant’s deep-fried scallops. Worth checking out!)

A note on nature – at the time of year we visited (mid-June), we found the mosquito population thriving. Apparently mosquito fogging is not done on the Island. Especially on hiking expeditions in treed areas, we recommend that you bring along bug spray for maximum enjoyment. Beach excursions are another matter – but if you are heading for the trees, be aware that you might have some irritating company.

Charlottetown is a beautiful place to stay, and hardly a big, bustling city. However, for an even deeper sense of peace and seclusion, consider beautiful St Peters Bay.

Overall Experience
We give the Inn at St Peters 4 and 1/2 Stars – Outstanding!

The Inn at St Peters is located at 1668 Greenwich Rd, St. Peters Bay, PEI. For hotel reservations call 800.818.0925, or visit http://www.innatstpeters.com/

Hostellerie de Plaisance (St. Emilion, France)

August 11, 2004 By karin Leave a Comment

Perhaps the most ironic thing about our journey to the medieval hilltop town of St. Emilion in our tour of Bordeaux, was our passing a McDonald’s along the way. I can imagine nothing more dramatic with which to juxtapose the ancient, walled city where cars are largely not permitted than the famed golden arches. We may as well have stepped into a time machine.

Finding St.Emilion seemed simpler than finding other places in Bordeaux. I suppose that at this point in our journey we’d finally become more accustomed to the maps, roads and traffic signs that at first had seemed indecipherable. As we neared St. Emilion, the countryside transformed from the rather flat expanses of Pessac-Leognan and Pauillac to a more picturesque, hilly landscape. The drive offered views with a lovely natural quality, and fewer palatial chateaux hovering near the road.

Finally, the city of St. Emilion emerged from the landscape as though out of time itself. Fortified with ancient stone walls, St. Emilion was originally built in the 12th century and then rebuilt in later centuries to its present appearance. The steep, cobbled roads weave round, up, and through in a fashion clearly not intended for automobiles. Indeed, traffic is limited to a unidirectional road, and parking, other than in the tourist area at the very top of the city, is nonexistent.

As one may imagine, the layout of this quaint place made it a challenge to find and park at our hotel, Hostellerie de Plaisance (of the Relais and Chateaux chain). Several false starts forced us right through the city; we then had to find the entrance once again due to the one-way road. Finally, we identified our hotel – partly due to the photo that we had printed from the hotel website, partly due to the fact that there was no other place to park our car than right near the hotel, and mostly due to luck.

The Hostellerie de Plaisance is located at the top of St. Emilion, which is also its heart. It is adjacent to a grand, carved stone cathedral that inspires awe in its visitors. The inn, once a monastery, is owned and operated (since 2001) by Madame and Monsieur Perse, also the owners of the renowned Chateau Pavie (Premier Grand Cru Classe), and of Chateau Monbousquet, Saint-Emilion Grand Cru. The interior is beautifully refurbished, offering elegance and modern amenities.

Our room, “Pavie,” was beautifully appointed with rich draperies and fabrics and elegant furniture. The bathroom was very spacious (note to North Americans – the WC is located in a separate room from the bath tub, shower, and sink). But it was the view that was completely breathtaking.

From our room, perched at the very top of this ancient, intriguing city, we could peer over the red-brown shingled roof tops of the snugly-situated buildings and the steeply sloping cobblestone streets. Open-air restaurants with canopied tables spread below us along with a thriving throng of visitors making their way from shop to shop, particularly in the Place du Marche. We could see beyond the city walls as well – and were delighted by the hilly, green vineyards that went on as far as the eye could see.

We dined two nights at the hotel’s restaurant and ate under the stars. We enjoyed a similar view of the city below as we ate the exquisite offerings of Chef Philippe Etchebest. Of particular note was an incredible, almost indescribable entree – a lasagne with foie gras, forest mushrooms, black truffles, and an amazing creamy sauce. The tender layers of noodles and the earthiness of all the rest will never be forgotten! Of course, neither will sipping the bold and beautiful 1998 Pavie-Macquin as we surveyed the land that produced it!

We took in the city itself the next day. Even at a strolling pace, it did not take us long to see the major points of interest and most of the shops. We had lunch al fresco at a pizzeria, eating at a tiny table set against an old stone wall, and then sampled homemade gelato as we finished our walk about. We did not tour the outlying vineyards during our stay, partly by choice after the myriad of tours in Pessac-Leognan and the Medoc, and partly by circumstance. The French do holiday in the summer, after all, and not everything is open just to suit a visitor’s convenience.

St. Emilion is a tiny place, an old place, with nooks and crannies to explore, but not so many that you are left overwhelmed at the end of the day. And there is something truly restful about this old city at night, when the day tourists are gone, and a quietness settles over those left amid the stone walls.

Overall Experience
We give the Hostellerie de Plaisance 5 Stars- Outstanding!

Hostellerie de Plaisance is located in St.Emilion in the Bordeaux region of France. For hotel reservations call 33 (0)5 57 55 07 55, or visit www.hostellerie-plaisance.com/

Halekulani (Honolulu, HI)

April 5, 2004 By karin Leave a Comment

Halekulani, the “House Befitting Heaven,” is aptly named. Located in Waikiki, the hotel overlooks majestic palms, a private strip of sandy beach, and then beyond into the endless stretch of the blue Pacific. Serenity washes over you at every turn at the recurring sight of native Hawaiin flowers and plants, and in the the welcoming rooms decorated in soothing, muted cream tones. The swaying sound of traditional Hawaiin music floats through the evening air from the lanai of House Without A Key, the hotel’s popular outdoor lounge. Comfort and serenity truly await in this corner of Hawaiin paradise.

Situated directly oceanside, Halekulani looks out onto Gray’s Beach, part of the greater Waikiki beach, traditionally associated with healing and renewal. This location says a lot about the feelings of well being this resort successfully inspires in its guests. Halekulani is close enough to the bustling shops and restaurants of downtown Honolulu – a short walk will get you in range of almost any store or eatery imaginable. Yet with its palm-lined ocean view, serene open air courtyards, and abundance of lush Hawaiin flora, the hotel transports you to a place of peace and calm.

View of Diamond Head from Halekulani Hotel

The lobby itself is remarkable. Without doors or windows, the entrance welcomes you in along with the perpetually perfect Hawaiian air. An enormous, stunning floral centerpiece is the first thing that comes into view, and then the vast open grassy courtyard just beyond. A stroll toward the courtyard reveals several tranquil sitting areas, with comfortable chairs and love seats. The colors of the furnishings and décor throughout the hotel are muted and natural, allowing the vibrancy of the fragrant blooms and lush greenery to take center stage. Stunning stone fountains do double duty in the front seating area by delivering a sense of calm and effectively masking the sounds of traffic which, unbelievably, are quite present just beyond them.

Heading toward the inviting ocean and blue sky, past a row of beautiful shops (artwork, jewelry, resort clothing and sundries) you’ll find Halekulani’s restaurants and the gorgeous pool area. The pool itself is characterized by a stunning orchid pattern, made of over 1 million glass mosaic tiles, inlaid in the floor of its 46-by-82 foot dimensions. The lounge area is comfortable and spacious, with shade provided by enormous palm trees, should you desire. Towels and fresh, comfortable terry lounge chair covers are provided, and attendants circulate to take drink orders. And of course, the view of the ocean is beyond description.

Halekulani Hotel Room - Sitting Area — Halekulani Hotel Room – Sitting Area

A wonderful feature of Halekulani is the in-room check-in service. Rather than making our initial arrangements on our tired feet in the lobby, a reception staff member accompanied us to our room and check us in there, personally pointing out the room’s amenities and giving a brief but informative verbal orientation to the hotel. The only draw back to this service is that the room and the view is so incredible, it may be hard to keep your mind on checking in! Our room was quite spacious, and decorated in creamy muted tones, allowing the azur blue of the ocean and sky beyond the window to be the focal point (lof course, you should be aware that not all rooms have an ocean view). We had a balcony that allowed us to gaze over the tops of the high palm trees and to catch a bird’s eye view of the famous “Orchid” pool and the evening hula show at House Without a Key.

Our bathroom was fairly large with a soaker tub and separate shower. It was regularly restocked with good-quality amenities. We appreciated various small but memorable touches throughout our stay, including the bowl of fresh Hawaiian fruit (guava, papaya, banana) awaiting us on our arrival, consistently prompt and thorough housekeeping service, and the presence of little gifts on our pillow left for us at turn down. The excellent service at Halekulani is definitely worthy of further note. Everyone was genuinely friendly, extremely accommodating, and seemed truly concerned that our stay was carefree. We became especially fond of the staff who parked and retrieved our car, each day offering directions and a willingness to help us with any question or concern.

Halekulani boasts several dining options within the hotel itself. The House Without a Key is a gorgeous open air lounge area, great for drinks and snacks in the evening, and also open in the mornings for a buffet breakfast. Even locals are drawn to the place, especially for Mai Tais and appetizers at sunset, to watch the sun sink into the ocean beyond the stage to the tune of Hawaiian hula music and mesmerizing hula dancing. This place quickly became a favorite of ours. We sipped many an orchid-bedecked Mai Tai, and tried tasty appetizers such as coconut shrimp, spring rolls and the complimentary “Maui Chips”.

The aptly named Orchids (several varieties of this graceful flower grow throughout the restaurant) restaurant is also open to the air and the ocean. Breakfast is served here (the sweetest pineapple you’ll ever taste!), and a tantalizing dinner menu is also offered (reservations are recommended). Finally, La Mer, Halekulani’s premiere restaurant offers elegant fare and an award-winning wine list. For lighter snacks, drinks or afternoon tea, you may also visit Lewer’s Lounge and the Veranda area. This location also features musical entertainment on certain evenings.

As the Halekulani is located in the heart of Waikiki, you’re in walking distance to huge public beaches and lots of shopping. Nearby stores are sure to satisfy every taste and price point, with the curious mix of swanky shops like Coach in Waikiki’s “Luxury Row” alongside ubiquitous souvenir and sundries stores. You will not go hungry either – an impressive array of restaurants lines the streets near Halekulani. A particular favorite seems to be The Cheesecake Factory. You’ll recognize it by the throngs of people outside its doors holding those restaurant pager gadgets willing to wait sometimes over an hour and a half for dinner!

A short distance away are other worthwhile attractions. The lush Honolulu Zoo is practically down the street from the hotel, and is a pleasant way to spend an hour or two. Not too far away is Diamond Head, perhaps the most famous volcano crater in the world. Diamond Head can be seen from Halekulani’s pool area and the open-air areas of Orchids and House Without A Key restaurants. Be warned that if you are going to climb Diamond Head, it is a steep hike – be sure to wear proper foot gear and bring plenty of water. Despite what you may hear about stairs and railings, this is a long, hot walk. The view is beautiful, but you will work for it.

Halekulani staff will be happy to arrange transportation for your touring needs. We recommend taking taxis to restaurants that are just out of driving range to save time navigating Honolulu’s often baffling maze of one-way streets, and to spare yourself the challenge of actually finding parking (you may want to consider this even if you have rented a car). A favorite dining discovery of ours was Alan Wong’s, and we’re convinced that the experience was enhacned by the fact that we didn’t have to locate it and negotiate parking by ourselves! Thanks to a cab ride, we arrived in time and sipped our wine without a care in the world! However, in general, we would certainly recommend renting a car so that you can get out there and experience Oahu. We drove almost the entire perimeter of this beautiful and dynamic island, taking in the phenomenal surfing beaches like Waimea, Makaha, and bohemian surfing towns (you must go to Haleiwa on the North Shore). You can’t go wrong taking in the sights at your own pace, stopping where and when you want to and being open to discovery and adventure.

It’s hard to say too much about the first-class treatment and slice of paradise we experienced at Halekulani. We would highly recommend it to the traveller looking for the best in rest, relaxation, and luxury.

Overall Experience
We give Halekulani 5 Stars- Outstanding!

Halekulani is located at 2199 Kalia Road, on Waikiki Beach, Honolulu, HI. For hotel reservations, call toll free 800-367-2343. For more information, call 808-923-2311, fax 808-926-8004 or visit www.halekulani.com.